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his 32 guys and girls... so he has a job XD... and can afford to waist money on something he doesnt need, but just wants to look flashy. (Take for example the build im doing; both people have alot of cash, so they dont care what they need, just what they want)

As for the ANS to your question... use the latest updated Optifine... as it runs with the latest version of MC... optifine is like any software, you just gotta keep updating it.

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P.S. to make it look even more flashy... custom loop it.. in a custom case next time, or its even more of a waist.

Heres a tip for you (After many PC builds) if you want to save money.. dont care too much for looks... see that box your motherboard came in, well theres a PC case right off the bat, or if you want something a little larger, asks the folk for a filing box, only about $1 at the shops. Or you could make a case from wood and have it setup how you want.

How old is your HDD.

Sounds like your HDD is failing.

Okay; well its been a week from the last viewing of this, and so after the guy gave me 1/3rd of the payment I went and got started on getting the parts.
Some parts I was lucky on, as I just have them as spare parts, and others, well, I had to get them Direct from the supplier.

Well here is the first of many packages that will be sent to me, via my work.


To be honest, after I ordered the parts on wednesday, I totally forgot what I did order so even I was pleasantly surprised when I got my Stanly knife (or box cutter to you brits) and hacked away like a cave man on his first date...
And so, here is what I got...


Please note on the above picture, the AX1200 and the 240 radiator I already had, the fans are there to remind me of how much REAL room I need to fit the sucker XD.

And so I got my tools all layed out, so I know what ill be needing, and so they arnt just all over the house.


Wait, whats that.. an anti static strap... hold on lets fix that.


And I guess there is one tool we all need to use, sadly I could only show one, as the other was holding the camera.



Heres what 40 connectors from bitspower look like, flown all the way from Thailand; keep in note guys, you can pay via paypal, but they rather you pay direct so they get the full $$$ and not have to pay paypal for transferring the money, and if you do that, you will need to confirm with your bank the transaction.


Wait this looks like 39... if you look at the box, you will see its slightly raised, thats because once I moved the box, the last one was hiding under the box


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Now for the case, and for the work to begin.
After inspecting it for its clean looks I know what I was gonna do to it, if you do want an unboxing of this case, theres plenty all over the net (youtube)


Get the case open, and check out what they think I may need.. pfft; all that got put back into the box; and that Air direction thing on the door, just had to go, what a piece of plastic. As I took the screws off the fan thing, it all came apart.


I was worried about clean looks and getting power to light up the door, till closer inspection, showed they had found a nice novel way of getting power to the fan already. so I can de-solder the current wire, and use LEDs


Well, I got the screw driver out, and took out ALL the screws I could, after all, a modded case isnt really modded till you strip it down and get a sexy music to play in the background (ohhh, if only I had some red globs to set the mood)


Well, as sexy as it looked being this naked, it seemed to need a little shaving in the bush area, or in this case, the HDD racks and the 5 1/4 racks needed to go... So one drill later and a bit of fun later.


Looking at the drill after, I just couldnt help but laugh, as I wasnt paying attention to the bit till the end, I was wondering why I could drill much further in... who needs sticky tape to mark how far, just use the pot-rivets to show you



Well; I cant really update this anymore this weekend, as I have to go to bunnings, and get some more 2mm ally plates, as im gonna need more then I thought, and I may have to make a whole new side door (Blasted plastic door.

Catch you guys in 7more days.

Well these forums I see with questions on builds and etc, and what they are building.
Not having done a proper build log im going to either be a little too scratchy or a little less, either way, if you need more info on the where whys and hows; im sure if I remember I could tell you, but your best bet would be to ask others as well.
(Again, 1st build log out of over 74 PCs built by me)
The main reason about doing this, is to one; get used to keeping record of the steps I take, two; self advertisement (not that I would find any here, as im in Australia) and 3, well because this is gonna be the bee's knee's; its gonna take me a bit of time, and I want to keep the client happy by telling him what im upto.
Simple.

Now to go along the Parts picked/chosen (taken 2 weeks of back and fwd between the client to keep the parts in order)
Going for a White/Black/Blue Sci-Fi look/feel.

Main Hardware:
Motherboard = ASRock X79 Extreme9 (Chose this motherboard for the number of ports on it, as in future the client may want to add more HDDs; and ive worked with the bios before for OCing) (Oh, and I may have the waterblock with me as well )
CPU = i7 3930k (Because it less then the 3970X by about $400, and for gaming, you dont need that sort of power.
RAM = G.Skill Ripshaws F3 1600 (32GB) (Sure he doesnt need 32GB, shoot only 8GB would do really, but when you got the spare cash, and want the thing to look even on a 2011 chip board, 4x8 sticks look so god blasted sexy, even more so when water cooled)
GPU = ASUS 7950 TOP 3GB (Now this was more of a "I have two spare 79x0's water blocks"; and this would let the user to use the last of my "active DP cables"; sure I could of gone for a single 690 (aka 2 GPUs on 1 PCB) but this just got rid of some spare parts, and makes it look like there's two floors inside the case, still have to buy the back plates but)
HDD = Intel 520 240GBSSD (Ahh just for the reliability and for the warranty factor)
HDD 2 = WD Blacks 2TB (3 of them, because steam really is his golden apple, and that tree is getting a little cold; also one of the fastest reliable HDDs out, with a huge 5year warranty right off the get-go)
PSU = Corsair AX1200 Gold (Bang for buck, and had it spare; all I did to it, was paint the sucker white on the outside, while keeping the corsair logo on it)
Optical Drive = Silverstone BR Burner Slim (Its slim and sexy looking, also is needed for side mounting)
Case = Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow (yes; a little bit of cutting will need to be done to it XD)



Cooling Hardware:
Reservoir = Bitspower Z-Multi 250 (This will be 1/4 sticking outside the case when the doors are closed, to give it that extra WOW factor (Not World Of Warcraft))
Pump = Koolance PMP500 (Yes this thing can be used on a med size watertank, but ill be setting it to its lowest setting to keep it hush hush, as much as possible.
Radiator 1 = XSPC 240 Crossflow (As much cutting as I will be doing to the case, I want to try and keep it to a min, and this is the largest size without cutting)
Radiator 2 = XSPC 240 (Now this will force me to cut the case, infact, this will be going where the drive bays are going togo; if you look at that slim Optical Drive I will be putting it on its side, next to the radiator)
Fittings = Bitspower Multi-link; and some compression fittings (If you see the tubing im going tobe using, you will understand)
Tubing = 1/2" Copper pipes, that are nickel plated. (Will be sanding and polishing this up for more WOW factor; but will maybe use normal or white tubes in unseen areas.
Waterblock CPU = XSPC Raystorm
Waterblock GPU = HeatKIller Nickel plated
Waterblock MoBo = MIPS Extream 9 Nickel Plated (Very hard to find, as they primaraly make the X11 version now)



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Well lets see what I get done in 7days; ill probs just order the parts as I go along that I havnt already; as the client isnt able to pay me all the costs at once. but his trying to sell his jeep for it XD.

$1600 - $7000 for a PC down here... thats a nice broad range, but yes, do wait between 1-4weeks before you got the $$$$.

As for me, im happy with 27" monitor setup.
May I suggest as time goes by, if you have the time; to pop into your local PC store, and try out the monitors/mouse/keyboards.. etc..

lols; love the remarks on my thermal pasting.. if you put too much you can get paste onto the pins ... so please avoid doing so.. ive only lost one cheap'o board doing that.. mainly just to see how much is too much.
---(fun fact: there is such a thing as too much paste..)

As for the 5 1/4" most would just modify the original 5 1/4 bays you have there, and re-use em.

No need to add the silver coil for another 12months after running, mainly as im taking a guess and saying your using distilled water, and adding the biocide to the loop.

The great thing about the quick dissconnects I find are at the **** end (the far most southerly end) when needing to change the coolant, or when you moving it long distances, so you will need to drain it etc... but mind you there's plenty of ways to skin a cat.

Some of my systems use the Quick Diss; others I cut a hole in the case, and use a valve just for that o-so-cleaner look.

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Yer, im not to much of a fan of the artic silver... you do have to get it right, just a rice grain drop is all that is needed, anymore and it will spread well over the parts intended and such; but im just picky about looks half the time now :P... I do use the artic silver at times for my CPU.. but I use Noctua for my GPUs.

Oh, and ive heard/been told of reports that the silver compound in the artic paste can sometimes contain more then it should, so the chances of short circuit can be risky.. but who doesnt like a nice short gamble every now and then

I suggest starting up in safe-mode; and reverting back to the last known backup...

Next you could try to "fix" your windows installer.

Lastly, driver updates...

"cestislife"; all have, and I agree, to get his money back, the seller just bulled his way through a sell...

This is why its best to have someone with you who knows computers and laptops with you, so you dont get your hopes up.
the 64bit should of been pre-installed from the get-go, not to mention selling a Fujitsu laptop as a gaming laptop shows they just wanted to get rid of the stock.
Quote from notebookcheck:
"Unlimited graphics performance" – is how Fujitsu heralds the Lifebook AH531/GFO in its spec sheet. Hopefully no one will believe that because we are talking about an Nvidia GeForce GT 525M (1024MB). In its enthusiastic description, the manufacturer has overlooked the fact that at least knowledgeable customers will sooner smirk at this graphics card than take it seriously.

However, it's the price that is important in the end. And the smallest midrange graphics from Nvidia is positioned at an attractive 549 euros in the Fujitsu Lifebook AH531. That is attention-grabbing because this price design is currently the lowest for a notebook with this graphics card.
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So as you can see not even a notebook reviewer who is prime biased towards laptops believes the display name "Unlimited graphics performance"; they were clearly going for the cheapest notebook with a 525M GPU chip.

Somehow I think you should just ask your "friend" advice on what not to do with PC builds :P; or if you do re-ask him.. just do the opposite; after all, you yourself couldnt do any worse off

To see if your HDD is seen, you can go through the bios, and see if its seen there. or just do the following. (windows 7)

Control panel -> (top right, arrange icons to large or small icons) -> Administrative Tools -> Computer management -> (Dbl click on storage; or left hand side you can click on Disk Management) -> GET TO DISK MANAGEMENT :P...
Now you will see in the middle, a large sorted area, listing the current usable disk space/disks... below, you will see the disks inserted/seen... the blue = usable... the black(or black lines) = unseen, just right click, and create a new volume(or disk partition)

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Edit: Maybe I should of clicked that link :P...

But my first point still stands XD

use it as a firewall router with linux running :P.. so long we can add more ethernet connections :D.. then again, just go and have a look at all your spare PC parts, sure you can make one there.

Okay.. going from experience (4 fully water cooled PCs, and 2 coming in the next few months)

The main ideas behind watercooling, is not only the looks, but to keep the unit quiet, and cooler at the same time.
Now with the 500D, I suggest adding a 360mm radiator to the loop as well, if you plan to cool CPU+GPU's+MoBo, and with that in mind, dont worry about how the flow through the radiators go, as the flow can only go as fast as its slowest point (the pump)

Now, with the whole what coolent to put into the loop, yes all are fine to a point... now that point is quite a large one.

Alcohol; is fine for the drunk mans loop, but I do suggest to drink the alcohol and use proper coolant, as the chemicals in 100% alcohol ruins the acrylic that is used on the endcaps of most reservoirs and the end caps of many blocks. This will result in more dirt and grime build up in your loop and could end up blocking the pump itself (over time of course)
Vinegar; would infact eat away at the o-rings that are compressed to keep the water in, and the air out(more so at the pump itself); lose of o-rings = water all over, system gone. (warranty is voided with all custom loops, unless you pay someone whose business it is to build custom loops for others)
Distilled water; is fine, but as the name say's; all its chemical make-up is H2O... so it will not produce algal blooms (look at a lake, and see the green rubbish, thats algal bloom). However its thermal conductivity is lower then that of pre-made coolant.
There is an agitator that you can add called "water wetter, that will increase its capability, and also reduce corrosion.
Pre-Made coolant; its just like the distilled version, only it has everything added to it, so you dont have to take a guess at the mix ratio, so if you cant be stuffed about going through the ratios, just get the premade gear.

(By my knowledge, be happy to be wrong and learn something new as I said, got 2 builds to come)

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Now thats what I know about coolants out of the way.. time for the finer details...

Again, please note: YOU WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTIES (on the gpu, cpu, and mobo)
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With the 500r; did you get the black, or the white version; for the color scheme, (black case) I would go for blue led fans, and blue tubes, with black fittings. I would also all a 3mm blue led to the reservoir.

Furthermore with the tubing, no need to go for the thickest and widest tubing, some 7/16 Inner Diameter and 5/8 Outer Diameter (by inches) we arnt cooling cars, or the local power station, just some hardware that would hardly touch 150 degrees even under summer conditions and just fan cooling... this is water cooling.

If you got the white case, go for a white/blue/slight black theme... again, blue led fans, with white tubing, and silver (or if you can get in your area, white) fittings.

Blue LED fan suggestions, I would highly suggest the Silverstone 120mm AP blue LED; with the fan settings set to the lowest possible, the loudest object you can hear is the HDDs (sata, not IDE ); and still does a great job of pushing air, and even pulling.
If your budget cant fit that in, then maybe Enermax TB; or just slightly higher, the Coolermaster Silent.

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The green just wouldnt go with any of the hardware, it would look so out of place big time in the style department.

oh and last time (for now ).. the white cables, good luck, they take alot of time to get it just right, as you have to remove the pins without damaging, put the sleeve over it evenly (and so all the cables look the same); then put the pins back exactly.. without forgetting to pre-place the heatshrink parts in the middle, then slide the heat shrink to the caps.. and gently heating... and not burning the heatshrink..
God, with all that heatshrink, I need a shrink ... But when done right, does look nice, and the feeling you get from the final product.... its better then going to an all you can eat free for a year, and have any PC part you want.
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As for pumps, I have no problems backing up using "Koolance PMP 450S", "XSPC D5" and even the "swiftech MCP35X"
But if I had to pick one of those 3, it would be the Koolance, not only silent, but can withstand the greatest pressure, so you can add more radiators, or water blocks to the loops before you have to dual them up.


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Cheers; good luck... oh, and dont forget, put either a fine cloth(or unused bedsheet) or some paper towels when leak testing...
Oh, and dont attach everything to the PSU, just add the pump connector, and let it run for 16-24 hours to clear all the bubbles out.

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Gerrr, brains... Gerrr...

One last step, if cash is still slightly tight, and you dont want to have wasted parts (un-used); then may I suggest, but the lot... excluding the fittings, and the tube... once you get the rest laid out how you want, then you can work out what fittings to get, and how many; as well as how much tube you need.

lols; I just saw the pics, your granny seems worried about your computer ...

oh, your get the TT V10 snow edition, nice; ill be getting one in 3 weeks time, for a custom build, man I hop I can fit the planned 2 240 radiators, or even better modding the case more, and fitting 2 360 radiators.
As bad as it is getting that error, (funny still having it pop up now-a-days); its easy to fix.

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Off topic - Hello fm87 long time no see... have you gone through the topics of late, seems intels out now-a-days ; most people picking AMD now for the cheaper cost .. boy the times when intel fan boys were all over here, funny times.

I got two PCs over $7k.. with one being $12k.... great for rendering and such.. also both are watercooled (with the 12k being fully watercooled including the HDDs)
What an expensive hobby to have, maybe I should just go fly kites

"peripherals and general gaming."

You said it all right there :P; playing simple games.... sims3... just get the M$ mouse/keyboard set; great for just for use at the office...
if money is no object and you hope to be the next esports champ; I do suggest try before you buy, most stores will be happy to let you try for a few min, see about grabbing a chair, and get a feel for the hardware.
No point, and more or less a waist of money, buying a $300 keyboard, and a $200 mouse, to only find out, that the games you play, and how you rest your hands, arnt suited to the mouse/keyboard you paid for.

Cheers.