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Jan 3, 2014So, from the title of this thread, you wish to sue a Minecraft Server because some admins said for you to change your skin or you'll be banned? This is seriously one of the all time lows of this forum.Posted in: Discussion
On topic and helpful time, no, there is no blanket rule that all admins must follow to stop this. It's their server, and they could ban you permanently just because they felt like it. Find a better server, make your own, or change your skin.
Edit: Now that I see what is on the back of your skin, personally, I'd make you change it too.
Dec 23, 2013Posted in: General GamingQuote from 4luckykid45You can finally switch between playing a game and lIve TV.
These are next generation technologies that cost billions of dollars in development with the brightest minds of the world, delivered right to you in a overpriced and underwhelming box. You can't just get these features in a sub $500 PC right? Right?Quote from Frog81Wow! on like half of our games we can have 1080p!
Dec 20, 2013Posted in: Server Support and AdministrationQuote from Gaming_addict
Hi everyone I was wondering if anyone could make a server for me and let me be owner but I will let u be co owner and if that wont work could u help me make one to help me leave ur Skype and ur age if u want to help
There's this glorious thing out there that you may have heard of that contains thousands upon thousands of video and written instructions on how to set up a Minecraft server and is entirely free to access, share, and create on.
It's called the Internet.
But seriously, you're too lazy to either look up how to host a server or pay a provider to do such for you, and you're hoping strangers will put their own time and effort into creating a maintaining a server for someone they've never met before. It takes a grand total of about 30 minutes to do the research on how to make a server.
Dec 20, 2013Posted in: DiscussionQuote from barrygateaux
and in other news - never pour boiling water into your computer, even if someone tells you to....
I did this and my FPS increased by at least 3%.
Anyways, thanks for you incredibly random and totally unnecessary PSA about the dangers of computer misuse at the instructions of total strangers, and general idiocy. Maybe you can make a list of obvious things not to do, like pouring melted cheese into your eyes or something along those lines, so the public can be aware of such dangers.
Sep 28, 2013Posted in: Hardware & Software Support
Feel like an idiot for not searching first, I'm going to go sit in the corner and think about what I've done.
Sep 12, 2013Phonics74 posted a message on How do you guys know how to rate a piece of hardware vs. another.By becoming a ignorant fan boy/girl for one product, criticizing anyone who doesn't use it, and refusing to accept a product is better than theirs, even when it's blatantly obvious.Posted in: Hardware & Software Support
Or just comparing specs and benchmarks like other people said, that works too...
Sep 3, 2013Avoid both of those like the plague. There are some of the worst pre-builts I've ever seen. I strongly recommend you give us a budget, location, and time-frame so we could help you build your own, which will be immensely better than either of those.Posted in: Hardware & Software Support
Aug 10, 2013Phonics74 posted a message on What Is One Thing That Will Probably Make Minecraft Worse?EA:Posted in: Discussion
- Multiplayer would be a monthly subscription, including a micro-transaction "pay-to-win" system
- Updates would be $20.00, including bug fix updates
- Forced DRM (Which might not be a horrible idea to combat pirating if Mojang ever decides if they want to do anything about it)
- No privately hosted servers. You can only buy servers from EA for $50.00 a month in any of their 2 designated locations: Antarctica and Cape Town.
- Skins and texture packs must be approved and added by EA, and cost $10.00 each. Mods would be removed entirely.
Jul 29, 2013Just let it lie down and die already. Minecraft Classic is so far behind where Minecraft is, it's not even worth keeping it going. The amount of new blocks and mechanics, and the addition of creative has pretty much sealed its fate.Posted in: Discussion
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Jun 29, 2012ConfuseACat posted a message on ConfuseACat's Shipyard --- Updated 24/04/15 --- Several New ShipsPosted in: Screenshots
Sailing for adventure on the Big Blue Wet Thing.
Hey all. I love building ships. I thought I'd get that out of the way first. This is where I'm posting them all, to keep them all in one place and avoid cluttering up the forums with dozens of threads. Whenever I build a new ship, it'll be posted here.
There's a couple of different eras of ships that I’ve built. I started out with late 18th century and Napoleonic era ships, the famous era of the ship of the line, and they'll come first in this thread. More recently I’ve taken to building early 20th century warships, the age of dreadnoughts. To begin with I was building whichever dreadnought-type ships I felt like, but I’ve since started to concentrate on the ships that fought the Battle of Jutland in 1916. I’ve got a separate thread on Project Jutland, which can be found here. The link is also in my signature.
I'm going to try to keep the thread segregated by era, posting the sailing ships at the top and the steamships at the bottom.
My latest ships can be seen in the Age of Steam group at the bottom of this post. I’ve built a lot of ships for my Jutland Project that haven’t made it into this thread yet; I’ll work on getting them added. If you want to see them before then, head over to my project thread (link above).
Age of Sail
"I do not say, my Lords, that the French will not come. I say only that they will not come by sea"
- Admiral of the Fleet John Jervis, First Lord of the Admiralty
I build as close as I can to Steve-scale, that is 1m per block. My age-of-sail ships generally work out a bit bigger than their real life counterparts, though, because of the blocky limitations. Aside from being a bit oversized, they're built around fairly realistic lines and most of them are inspired by real life examples.
I've got an ambitious plan to make a harbour city ~1800, and so I'm building ships that would fit in nicely together, a fleet of warships and assorted civilian vessels. I like to build every ship with a sails furled and a sails set version, so there'll be a mix of pictures here. World Edit is very handy for keeping several copies of each ship in different states of sail. The harbour city plan is on hold at the moment, but it’s something that’s often on my mind.
I'll probably reference the Royal Navy rating system quite a lot - that's the designations for different size of warship based on number of guns and number of gun decks. See - http://en.wikipedia....Napoleonic_Wars
I've written a walkthrough/tutorial of how I build sailing ships, using WIP shots of my 6th rate frigate as an example. You can read that here >>> http://www.minecraft...lding-tutorial/
Open up the spoiler!I'm going to post these in the order they were built, starting with the newest ship and finishing with my very first ship down at the bottom of the post.
So, here goes with my newest ship in this category, which is -
3rd Rate Ship of the Line - Audacious
Audacious is the second 74 that I've built. I think she's a big improvement on Vanguard, and I've since edited Vanguard's stern to match better with Audacious. This is also the first ship where I've taken the screenshots for this first post with my fancy modified textures for the stern.
The reason I built a second 74 is that the 74 gun third rate really was the mainstay of most European navies in the late 18th century and Napoleonic period. If I'm going to have a fleet, I want to have more than one 74 template to work from. This ship I based on some of the more 'heavy' 74 designs, which were typically a little longer and carried 24 pounders on the upper gun deck instead of the more usual 18 pounders. She also carries more guns in total than Vanguard, due to the carronades on the quarterdeck and forecastle, which aren't included in the rating.
Smuggler's Ketch - Northwind
I'd fancied doing a smuggler's vessel for a while, and a ketch seemed like a nice one to go for. Often their ships would be even smaller than this, perhaps like my cutter further down in the post.
This is the first ship where I've modified the texture pack so that I can have tanned sails - treated so that they last longer. Though from the point of view of these smugglers the main goal is to make their ship less noticeable to the customs men.
She carries a single boat amidships so that the crew can carry their illicit cargo back and forth between the ship and shore, and two short sternchaser guns in case the customs men give chase.
5th Rate Frigate - Arethusa
This 5th rate is based on the 38 gun desgins that became a fairly standard layout towards the end of the age of sail. She carries 38 long guns and 10 carronades. Interestingly, this gives her 4 guns more than my 5th rate Razee, but a lower rating since many Razees had their carronades included in their rating.
5th rates were the quintessential cruising frigate, fully capable of operating alone on wildly varying assignments. They were considered a great assignment for a crew because of the prospects of a lot of prize money.
This one's taken from the poop deck of my razee-
2nd Rate Ship of the Line - Barfleur
A 2nd Rate was a common type of ship in the Royal Navy, but not so much in other fleets. A 3-decker like the 1st rates, they generally carried 90 to 98 guns. Really the main difference between a 1st and a 2nd was that the 1st rate was of a heavier construction and the cannons tended to be heavier. They would usually both carry 32-pounders on the main gundeck but whereas a 1st rate would carry 24-pounders on the middle gun deck a 2nd rate was usually restricted to 18-pounders.
This meant that their firepower wasn't all that much more than that of a 74, and they tended to sail poorly. But they had the advantage of height in a battle, being able to fire down on an enemy two-decker. Enemy captains would often mistake them for a first rate as well, leading to them avoiding what they thought was a far superior enemy. The Royal Navy often used them as flagships on distant stations where 1st rates were considered too valuable to send.
This ship is inspired by, and named after one of the real workhorses of the Royal Navy, HMS Barfleur. She saw long service, and if there was a major battle there was a good chance that Barfleur would be there in amongst the action.
3rd Rate Ship of the Line - Vanguard
Finally! I'd been meaning to do a 74 for a long time, and this was the first. The 3rd rate 74 was the mainstay ship of the line in the late 18th century and the Napoleonic period. They combined potent firepower, rugged construction and decent handling and sailing qualities to make the perfect all-rounder. More firepower than smaller ships, cheaper and better handling than the 3 deckers.
This ship is roughly based off Sir Thomas Slade's Arrogant class. They were designed at roughly the same time as his Ardent class 64 gunners, which I used as the basis for my own 64 a few ships down. So naturally they look quite similar apart from the fact that this one has slightly more cannon. The major change is that I've come up with a better way of building the bow, and since it was a model of HMS Vanguard (1787) that helped me, I've named this ship after her.
Barque Trader - Arcturus
A barque is a vessel where the foremast and mainmast are square rigged, while the mizzen is fore-and-aft rigged. This meant that it could sail into the wind a bit better than a ship-rigged vessel, and needed fewer men. The downside was that it wasn't quite as fast at running with the wind behind it.
I've built this to be a sleek, fast vessel. She's completely unarmed, though her sides are painted to try to fool other vessels into thinking that she's lined with gunports. Her defence is speed, with a large sail area and a relatively narrow hull to cut through the water. The sail plan means that even when the wind is unfavourable she can make decent headway.
The large cargo hold takes up most of the central space -
Brig Collier - Wolfe
A collier was a ship that transported coal. They were normally coastal ships, travelling from a nation's coalfields towards the expanding cities - cities that were always hungry for fuel. The 'brig' part of the name simply means that it's a two masted, square rigged vessel.
I've built it so that the coal bunker is pretty much the entire width of the hull in between the masts, apart from a couple of walkways. To the rear of the mainmast, most of the free space is given over to other cargo, resulting in a ship that has very little room for the crew. I've left the coal open to the air, but in bad weather it would be covered over. A couple of the screenshots are from above so you can see it.
Gaff Cutter - Ermine
A cutter is a small ship with a single mast. This is probably a coastal boat, sailing between ports up the same stretch of coast. Or along wide rivers. Perhaps it even carries a harbour pilot to guide larger vessels into port.
5th Rate Razée - Inexorable
So, what is a razée? It's a ship that's had some of its upper decks removed. The reason for doing that is that it would make a ship sail better. So, older two decker ships of the line would often be razéed by removing the upper gun decks, resulting in a ship that classed as a heavy frigate. But, because of its origins as a ship of the line it still had that heavy construction and the ability to carry heavy cannon.
I made this one by modifying my 64 gun third rate Diomedes, using World Edit to take a copy and literally razéeing the upper decks off it, making slight alterations to the stern and bow, and then rebuilding the masts. It carries 44 guns in total, 26 long cannon on the gundeck, 12 long cannon and 6 carronades on the upper decks.
To me, probably the biggest difference between this and a purpose built 5th rate that I might have built is that this one has a full, flush spar-deck running from the bow to the poop deck.
3rd Rate Ship of the Line - Diomedes
The third rate was the standard ship of the line, formed the backbone of most fleets and usually took the brunt of the fighting. Solid, dependable and powerful with their two gun decks, and they tended to sail much better than the larger three deckers. This is a 64 gun version that takes inspiration from Sir Thomas Slade's Ardent class.
The 64s eventually gave way to the ubiquitous 74 gun versions, and I plan on making one of those too. After they were surpassed by 74s, a lot of 64s were razeed and turned into heavy frigates, and that's one of the reasons I've built a 64. I razeed a copy of this ship, and the result is my 5th rate frigate, Inexorable.
For this one I'm back to the colour scheme I've used on my 1st and 6th rates to make a coherent fleet. I also made the choice to use smaller topsails and large topgallants.
Brig-Sloop - Goshawk
A Sloop-of-war was the general name for ships that were too small to be 'rated', sitting just below 6th rates in the rating system. They could be roughly divided into two groups - the three masted 'Ship-Sloops' and the two masted 'Brig-Sloops'.
This vessel is loosely based on the Royal Navy's successful Cruizer class of Brig-Sloop. This was a flush decked design (meaning no raised fore or stern) that was armed with 18 carronades. The carronade was a type of short cannon that fired heavy shot but with a short range. Because these ships didn't carry any long guns they would be at the mercy of a ship that could outmanouevre them, but they could bring tremendous firepower to bear at close range.
They were unpopular with crews because of how small and cramped they were, but they were popular with the navy because they were surprisingly powerful for the amount of men needed to crew them, and the navy was struggling with a shortage of trained seamen.
This ship is so small that even the captain has to settle for a small cabin below the waterline.
East Indiaman - Amelia
An East Indiaman was the largest style of merchant vessel of the era. They were designed to carry a mix of cargo and passengers as well as being able to fight off attackers. They were surprisingly heavily armed, and often painted to resemble rows of gun ports to look as though they were more heavily armed than they really were. Some were even purchased by navies and converted into warships, normally as 4th rates.
Mine has been built so that it could be configured as a 4th rate of 50 guns, and looks like it carries that many. But at the moment it carries 36 cannons. The space under the forecastle is divided into small cabins for paying passengers, and the gunports form their cabin windows. There are 53 beds for passengers in total. Naturally, the crew sleep wherever there's space, usually slinging hammocks on the gun deck.
The stern cabins are divided into a captain's cabin, officer's mess and 4 cabins for senior officers. The orlop is divided - in the middle of the ship the deck is removed to form a large cargo hold and there's a large grating on the upper gundeck for the loading of cargo into the hold.
With the sails for this one, I decided to model it at right angles to my first two ships. This meant that the wind would be blowing almost abeam of the ship, so plenty of jibs and staysails seemed to be the best choice. Most of the square sails remain furled.
Cargo Hold -
6th Rate Frigate - Palatine
The 6th rate was the smaller rating of frigate, of 20-28 guns. Frigates were the general purpose ships of a fleet. Too small to fight in major battles, they performed just about all of the other duties - scouting, patrol, commerce raiding, harrying the enemy. Towards 1800, 6th rates were gradually being replaced by the heavier 5th rates.
This is a 28 gun version, so it's one of the larger 6th rates. It carries 24 cannons on the gun deck and 4 on the quarterdeck. The single stern cabin is used both as the captain's cabin and the officer's mess. The fore and main masts have their royal sails set for extra speed in favourable winds.
1st Rate Ship of the Line - Royal Sovereign
The 1st rate was the largest type of warship, carrying 100+ cannons across three gun decks. They were sturdily constructed, but fairly slow and cumbersome. Because they were the largest and most expensive type of warship, they were prestigious and few in number and normally served as flagships.
Mine carries 100 cannons on the gun decks, 34 on the lower gun deck, 32 on the middle and 34 on the upper. It also carries two bowchasers and two carronades on the forecastle and four carronades on the quarterdeck for 108 guns in total.
The stern cabins are a bit more spacious than the other ships - the top one is given over entirely to a large captain's/admiral's cabin, the middle one is an officer's mess and the lower is divided into five officer's cabins.
This is the first ship I ever built, and I don’t know whether to feel disappointed in my hull shape or pleased that I managed to do this well with my first effort.
The Lower Gun Deck -
Age of Steam
”There seems to be something wrong with our bloody ships today"
- Vice-Admiral David Beatty, Battle of Jutland, 1916
Like my Napoleonic Era stuff, these ships are built at Steve-scale, 1m per block. The difference here is that I'm building them specifically as replicas (or close to it) of real life ships. My sailing vessels are inspired by real ships, but these dreadnoughts are built off plans, drawings and photographs of real ships.
I've also recently written a tutorial on how I build these dreadnought battleships, using HMS Dreadnought herself as my example. It can be found here: Battleship Tutorial
Open up the spoiler!
SMS Stettin (1907)
Stettin was a Königsberg class light cruiser launched in 1907. They were an improvement of the Bremen class, slightly larger and faster than the previous ships. After Stettin was commissioned, she served in home waters with the High Seas Fleet. In 1912, she was assigned to a cruise to the USA with SMS Moltke, meeting the US Atlantic Fleet and touring the US East Coast for two weeks.
In WWI, she took part in the Battle of Heligoland Bight. She fought with British Destroyers, causing several hits and contributing to dispersing the enemy ships. She took damage in return, but nothing significant. Later on, she was fortunate to escape the fire of the British battlecruisers due to hazy conditions. She took part in a raid on English coastal towns later in 1914, before performing operations against Russia in the Baltic in 1915.
At Jutland she was flagship of Commodore von Reuter of the IV Scouting Group, tasked with screening for the High Seas Fleet. The group became dispersed in the night; first Hipper’s battlecruisers passed too close in front forcing Stettin to slow, which the rest of the group failed to notice. Shortly afterwards they were attacked by the British 2nd Light Cruiser Squadron. Stettin was hit twice early on and caught fire. The steam pipe for her siren was punctured, and the escaping steam impaired visibility. The group became even more dispersed when they had to swerve to avoid the sinking cruiser Frauenlob. Eventually only Stettin and München remained together, the two of them accidentally firing on a group of friendly torpedo boats.
Stettin was withdrawn from active service in 1917 and used as a training ship. She was surrendered to Britain under the terms of the Treaty of Versailles and was sold for breaking up in 1921.
SMS Hessen (1903)
Hessen was a Braunschweig class pre-dreadnought battleship built in the first few years of the 20th century. The Braunschweigs were not long in commission before they were made obsolete by HMS Dreadnought, but as some of Germany’s newest pre-dreadnoughts they remained in use by the Kaiserliche Marine through WWI.
Hessen was quite prone to collisions; in 1911 she accidentally rammed and sank the Danish steamer Askesund and rammed another Danish ship Argo later that same year. She also collided with the torpedoboot G110 in 1913. In WWI, Hessen and her sisters were assigned to the IV Battle Squadron and provided distant support for the Battlecruiser operations. At Jutland, she joined the 5 Deutschland class ships in the II Battle Squadron. She was the only Braunschweig class ship to sail to the battle, the others were otherwise engaged or considered to be in no fit state to sail.
For much of the battle, Scheer tried to keep his pre-dreadnoughts out of harm’s way. Despite this, they performed an important role covering the retreat of Hipper’s battlecruisers. In the early hours of the morning, the pre-dreadnoughts were attacked by a force of British destroyers. Hessen narrowly avoided a torpedo, but Pommern, which was directly ahead, was not so lucky. The impact detonated a magazine, causing the ship to explode spectacularly. Hessen’s crew assumed that the torpedoes were fired by a submarine and spent much of the rest of the night firing at imaginary submarines.
She was withdrawn from active service in 1917, but was reactivated after the war. After all of Germany’s dreadnought type ships were scuttled or ceded to the Allies under the Treaty of Versailles, a handful of pre-dreadnoughts were the only battleships that they were allowed to retain. She was withdrawn again in the 1930s and converted into a target ship, but was recommissioned again in 1937 to serve with the Kriegsmarine in WWII. She was ceded to the Soviet Union after the war, who used her as a target ship until she was scrapped in 1960.
HMS Liberty (1913)
Liberty was a two-funnel variant of the Laforey class (L class) destroyer. The class formed the 3rd Destroyer Flotilla at the outbreak of WWI. They were present at Heligoland Bight and Dogger Bank, and many were present at Jutland, including Liberty. She was sold for scrap in 1921
HMS Lydiard (1914)
Lydiard was a Laforey class (also known as L class) destroyer built at Fairfield just before the outbreak of WWI. She served with the 3rd Destroyer Flotilla and fought at Heligoland Bight, where she scored a torpedo hit on the German light cruiser Mainz. She was also present at Dogger Bank in 1915 and Jutland in 1916, before being transferred to escort duties after 1917 and being sold for scrap in 1921.
HMS Hampshire (1903)
Hampshire was an armoured cruiser of the Devonshire class. They were a class of 6 armoured cruisers designed for commerce protection, armed with four 7.5” guns in single turrets. After completion she spent time in the Channel Fleet, the reserve Third Fleet, the Mediterranean Fleet and later the China Station. She was in the Far East when WWI started and hunted for German commerce raiders until the end of the year when she was reassigned to the Grand Fleet.
She fought with the Grand Fleet at Jutland, and unlike most of the armoured cruisers was relatively unengaged. Immediately following the battle, she was ordered to transport Lord Kitchener on a diplomatic mission to Russia. Not far off Orkney she struck a mine that had been laid by U-75 a few days earlier. Due to the stormy conditions and the speed with which she sank, only 12 crewmen survived. Kitchener and all of his staff perished.
HMS Fearless (1912)
Fearless was an Active class scout cruiser, the final development of the design which began with the Boadiceas. The Active class were the last scout cruisers built by the Royal Navy before their role was fully taken by the light cruiser type. The most obvious difference over the previous Blonde class was the plough bow.
After commissioning she was assigned to the Harwich force – a group of light cruisers and destroyers based out of Harwich in Essex. As leader of the 1st Destroyer Flotilla, she participated in the Battle of Heligoland Bight in 1914 and Jutland in 1916. Later she was made leader of the Grand Fleet’s 12th submarine flotilla and had a regrettable role in the so called Battle of May Island in early 1918. As her flotilla (among others) made their way to Rosyth for excercises, a combination of a misty evening and confusion over ship positioning resulted in the unfortunate sinking of several submarings. Fealess accidentally rammed K17 and then came to a halt. The other following submarines had to turn to avoid her, resulting in several more collisions. Fearless was sold for scrap in 1921.
HMS Blanche (1909)
Blanche was a Blonde class scout cruiser, which were an update of the Boadicea class with improved armament. In WWI she was generally attached to battleship squadrons for repeating of signals and general scouting duties. She was one of three cruisers dispatched to patrol the Norwegian coast for the German raider SMS Greif in early 1916, but did not come across the German ship before she was sunk. Blanche was present at Jutland, but took no active part and was converted to a minelayer in 1917. She was scrapped in 1921.
HMS Boadicea (1908)
HMS Boadicea was the lead ship of her class of scout cruisers. By the time of WWI the scout cruiser type had been surpassed by the new light cruiser types, but the scout cruisers still found use. She spent WWI assigned to battleship squadrons. At Jutland, her role was to repeat visual signals to and from the 2nd Battle Squadron. She spotted the German fleet at night, but the information wasn’t passed to the flagship out of fear of giving away the Grand Fleet’s position. She was converted to a minelayer in 1917, and was eventually broken up in 1926.
HMS Collingwood (1908)
HMS Collingwood was one of the three-ship St. Vincent class, named after the Napoleonic-era admiral Cuthbert Collingwood. The St. Vincents were an incremental improvement on the preceding Bellerophon class, the only major update being an improved, longer main armament.
The only major engagement of her career was at Jutland in 1916, where she scored at least one hit on SMS Derfflinger. Prince Albert, the future King George VI, was a sub-lieutenant commanding A turret during the battle, and it was said that during a lull in the action he was seen sitting on the turret roof. She was present at Scapa Flow in 1917 when her sister ship Vanguard exploded, recovering the bodies of three of the seamen.
After the war she was reduced to reserve, briefly served as a boys’ training ship before being sold for scrap in 1922.
HMS Temeraire (1907)
HMS Temeraire was the second of the Bellerophon class battleships. The class were effectively a repeat of HMS Dreadnought, with the one obvious alteration being the masts. Dreadnought had carried her mast aft of the forward funnel, because the back of the mast could then be a convenient point for mounting the boat crane. However, smoke from the funnel was found to badly obscure the spotting tops. The Bellerophon class carried two tall masts, each one forward of a funnel.
Temeraire spent the majority of WWI in the 4th Battle Squadron of the Grand Fleet. In 1915, she was with HMS Dreadnought when the latter rammed and sank U-29. Temeraire was also attempting to ram, and narrowly avoided colliding with Dreadnought. She fought at Jutland, scoring hits on SMS Wiesbaden and firing at SMS Derfflinger and German destroyers. She was not damaged in the battle.
After the war, she briefly served as a training ship before being sold for scrap in 1921 due to the upcoming Washington Naval Treaty.
SMS München (1902)
SMS München was a Bremen class light cruiser, which were effectively an enlarged version of the preceding Gazelle class and laid down between 1902 and 1904.
In her early career she served as a test ship for torpedoes and wireless telegraphy, before being assigned to the High Seas Fleet when the First World War broke out. She was present at the Battle of Heligoland Bight, though her orders took her to standing in reserve and conducting reconnaissance rather than actively participating.
At the Battle of Jutland she performed a screening role, and at around 21:00 encountered the British 3rd Light Cruiser Squadron. The range was great enough that only München and Stettin were able to open fire. She didn’t score any hits, but was hit herself in the third funnel, causing an explosion that damaged four boilers.
Later when they encountered the 2nd Light Cruiser Squadron, she had to manoeuvre sharply to avoid the sinking Frauenlob. She attempted to torpedo HMS Southampton, but missed. She suffered further hits, leading to her wheelhouse being damaged and the ship needing to be steered from the steering gear compartment. A little later, they accidentally fired on German torpedo boats and were nearly hit themselves by wild firing from the pre-dreadnoughts of the German II Battle Squadron.
She survived the war and was ceded to Britain under the Treaty of Versailles. The British soon had her scrapped.
SMS Frauenlob (1902)
SMS Frauenlob was a Gazelle class light cruiser, which were built around the turn of the 20th century. The Gazelles were the first modern light cruiser design of the Imperial German Navy, and were a distinctive design with their very pronounced ram bow.
She fought in the Battle of Heligoland Bight in 1914, where she scored an estimated 25-30 hits on HMS Arethusa, which soon caught fire but managed to escape into the fog. Frauenlob took 10 hits in return, but none caused significant damage. She fought at Jutland in 1916. During the night fighting, the battlecruisers Seydlitz and Moltke passed too close to the light cruisers, forcing them out of line and bringing them into contact with British light cruisers. Frauenlob opened fire, but was struck by a torpedo from HMS Southampton. She soon capsized and sank, with only 9 survivors.
SMS Friedrich der Große (1911)
SMS Friedrich der Große was the second ship of the Kaiser class and spent much of her career as the flagship of the High Seas Fleet. Along with her sisters, she had a very distinctive look caused by the wide spread of her two funnels and the two large boat cranes between them. The funnels were spaced as they were to allow the two wing turrets to fire en echelon between them.
She took part in most of the major fleet sorties of WWI, though the only major action where she engaged the enemy was at Jutland. During the battle she fought from the centre of the German dreadnought line. She engaged the British cruisers and destroyers, as well as HMS Warspite which had suffered rudder problems, putting her in the line of fire. Scheer successfully withdrew his ships from their encounter with the Grand Fleet, though there was still fighting through the night. Friedrich der Große took part in the destruction of the armoured cruiser Black Prince.
She was replaced as fleet flagship in 1917 by the new SMS Baden, and was interned in Scapa Flow with the rest of the High Seas Fleet after the war. The ships were scuttled to avoid handing them over to the allies; the wreck of Friedrich der Große was raised and scrapped in the 1930s.
HMS Chester (1915)
HMS Chester was one of two ships of the Birkenhead subclass of the Town class light cruisers. They differed from the Birminghams due to carrying a 5.5” main armament rather than 6”. Originally ordered by the Greek government, their contracts were taken over by the British Admiralty in 1915.
Chester entered service in 1916, three weeks before Jutland. During the battle she took heavy fire, but it generally caused superficial damage to the decks and superstructure, killing many of the gun crews. One young gunner, John Cornwell, was later found to be the only survivor of his gun crew. Severely injured, he was still manning his gun and waiting for orders. He died in hospital a couple of days later and was awarded a posthumous Victoria Cross.
Chester was later offered for re-sale to Greece, but the offer wasn’t taken up and she was sold for scrap in 1921. The gun that Cornwell had manned at Jutland is preserved in the Imperial War Museum in London.
HMS Birmingham (1913)
HMS Birmingham was the lead ship of her subclass of the Town class light cruisers. They slightly differed from the Chathams with an altered main armament layout and had an increased flare to their bows.
When she commissioned in 1914, Birmingham joined the Grand Fleet. In August, she rammed and sank the U-boat U-15, which was surfaced while the crew attempted to repair the engines. This was the first loss of a U-boat to an enemy warship. She fought at Heligoland Bight, Dogger Bank and Jutland, before serving on foreign stations through much of the 1920s and being sold for scrap in 1931.
HMS Southampton (1912)
HMS Southampton was part of the Chatham subclass of the Town class light cruisers. They only differed slightly from the previous Weymouth subclass, with the most obvious change being a different shape for their bows.
HMS Southampton had a very active career in WWI, serving as a Light Cruiser flagship through the Battle of Heligoland Bight, the Battle of Dogger Bank and the Battle of Jutland where she sank the German light cruiser SMS Frauenlob with a torpedo.
She was sold for scrap in 1926.
HMS Yarmouth (1911)
HMS Yarmouth was part of the Weymouth subgroup of the Town class light cruisers. Compared with the previous Bristol subclass, they had a more powerful main armament and a higher freeboard. They were also the first cruisers to mount an aircraft in the form of a Sopwith Pup.
HMS Yarmouth was on the China Station in 1914 and took part in the hunt for the German commerce raider SMS Emden. When she returned home, she was assigned to the Grand Fleet and fought at Jutland and in 1917 made history when a Sopwith Pup took off from a platform mounted on one of the gun turrets, which was the first successful launch of an aircraft in that fashion.
She was sold for scrap in 1929.
HMS Gloucester (1909)
HMS Gloucester was part of the Bristol subclass of the Town class light cruisers. The Bristols were the first subgroup of the class, with a fairly low freeboard and comparatively light main armament, just two 6” guns, supported by ten 4” guns along the wings.
Upon commissioning, Gloucester joined the 2nd Light Cruiser Squadron in the Mediterranean. In 1914 she took part in the hunt for the German ships SMS Goeben and SMS Breslau, and later hunted for German raiders off the West African coast. In 1915 she was assigned to the Grand Fleet and took part in the Battle of Jutland. Later in the war, she served once again in the Mediterranean and in East Africa before being sold for scrap in 1921.
HMS Ardent (1913)
HMS Ardent was a Builder’s Special variant of the Acasta class destroyer. This meant that she was slightly shorter than the standard Admiralty design. She was sunk during the Battle of Jutland by secondary gunfire from the German battleship SMS Westfalen.
HMS Sparrowhawk (1912)
HMS Sparrowhawk was an Acasta class destroyer of the Royal Navy. She was built to the Admiralty design, and served in the First World War until 1916, when she was sunk at the Battle of Jutland. The story of her sinking is a bizarre one. During the night fighting, she collided with the flotilla leader HMS Broke. On both ships, the order was given to transfer over to the other; likely they both thought that their own ship was about to sink. By the time they separated, 20 of Sparrowhawk’s crew were aboard Broke, and 15 men had gone in the opposite direction. Sparrowhawk then suffered another collision with her sister ship HMS Contest, though Contest was relatively undamaged by the impact. Sparrowhawk spent the next few hours unable to manoeuvre and trying to stay quiet and unnoticed. She was eventually found by a group of British destroyers. HMS Marksman attempted to tow her, but the lines parted. Due to reports of nearby U-boats, it was decided to abandon and sink Sparrowhawk.
HMS Indefatigable (1909)
The Indefatigable class were the second group of British battlecruisers. Originally intended to be a one-off design, HMS Indefatigable was a slightly lengthened version of the Invincible class with the turret/funnel layout altered to try to enable the ship to more effectively fire all of the turrets on the broadside. Later, the British government convinced the Australian and New Zealand governments to fund a battlecruiser each, and the Indefatigable design was chosen rather than the newer Lion class which was already in development, meaning that the class eventually numbered three ships. HMAS Australia formed the core of the brand new Royal Australian Navy, while HMS New Zealand was intended as a gift to the Royal Navy from the New Zealand government.
HMS Indefatigable joined with HMS Indomitable to chase the German battlecruiser SMS Goeben and cruiser SMS Breslau through the Mediterranean at the beginning of the First World War and later bombarded the Ottoman fortifications at the Dardanelles. She took part in the Battle of Jutland in 1916, where she was the first capital ship sunk on either side. She was engaged by SMS Von der Tann, which caused enough damage that Indefatigable fell out of the line and began to list. Shortly afterward she was torn apart by a huge magazine explosion. Two men survived and were rescued by the German torpedo boat S16.
Much like the real life Indefatigable design, I started with my HMS Invincible and modified it by enlarging the hull and refitting the superstructure.
SMS Lützow (1913)
SMS Lützow was the sister ship of SMS Derfflinger, which was one of the first ships I built from this era. However Lützow differed slightly. Derfflinger had two fewer secondary guns than the class was designed for since she rolled quite badly and had to be fitted with anti-roll tanks, which meant replacing two of the casemate guns. Lützow (and the third sister Hindenburg) carried the full design armament. In addition, she had some extra superstructure which I assume had to do with her role as battlecruiser flagship, a role which she filled for Franz von Hipper from her commissioning until the Battle of Jutland in 1916.
Lützow led the German Scouting Forces at Jutland, and was in the thick of the action. Along with Derfflinger, she destroyed HMS Invincible. However, Lützow took a pounding from the British fleet and was soon in no state to fight. Hipper transferred to Moltke via the torpedo boat G39 so as to command from a ship in better condition. Lützow attempted to limp back to port, but in the night it became apparent that she wasn’t going to make it. She had taken on so much water that the bows were starting to go underwater and she was in imminent danger of capsizing. The order was given to abandon ship and once the crew was off she was finished off with a couple of torpedoes.
SMS Wiesbaden (1915)
The Wiesbaden class was a group of two light cruisers that were built in the early years of WWI. SMS Wiesbaden is notable for being the centre of a battle-within-a-battle at Jutland. She was disabled by a shell that exploded in her engine room, leaving her dead in the water. A furious fight erupted around her, the British trying to finish her off and the Germans attempting to defend her. Several ships were sunk fighting over Wiesbaden, which eventually sank with only one survivor.
SMS Von der Tann (1909)
SMS Von der Tann was the first battlecruiser built by Germany, and the only ship of her class. When the Kaiserliche Marine first learned of the new Royal Navy battlecruisers, they thought they were just larger armoured cruisers and laid down SMS Blücher in response. When it later became apparent that they were an entirely new breed of ship, SMS Von der Tann was laid down as a proper response. Because they knew that the Kaiserliche Marine would be outnumbered by Royal Navy battleships in the event of a war, the Kaiser and the Admiralty demanded a ship which was well armoured enough to stand in the main battleline, setting the pattern for the German battlecruisers. They were slightly less heavily armed and slightly less well armoured than the battleships, in exchange for a greater speed. This contrasted with the British battlecruisers which were generally more heavily armed and faster than their German counterparts, but weren’t as well protected.
Von der Tann took part in the various bombardments of the English coast in WWI, as well as the Battle of Jutland. In the early stages of the battle, she scored several hits on HMS Indefatigable, causing an ammunition explosion which destroyed the British battlecruiser. At one point, all four main gun turrets were out of action, two due to shellfire and two due to malfunction. She withdrew along with the rest of the battered battlecruisers and was out of action for repairs for about two months.
She was scuttled at Scapa Flow in 1919 along with most of the High Seas Fleet.
HMS Orion (1910)
The Orion class were the first super-dreadnoughts. They were the first British battleships to mount all of their guns on the centreline, and the first to upgrade from the 12” to the 13.5” gun. There was a corresponding jump in displacement and cost over the previous designs. They were also the first of a succession of broadly similar battleships, with the following King George V and Iron Duke classes repeating their basic layout.
The four Orions were grouped together as the 2nd Battle Squadron 2nd Division for most of the war, including at Jutland. They weren’t heavily engaged in the battle; they only ever fired fleetingly at long range when they had the chance, claiming a few hits.
All four ships survived the war and were decommissioned as a result of the Washington Naval Treaty in 1921. HMS Orion was broken up for scrap in 1923.
HMS Royal Oak (1914)
The Revenge class were the newest class of battleship built by the UK during WWI, originally planned for 8 ships but later reduced to 5. Revenge and Royal Oak participated in the Battle of Jutland. Royal Sovereign was so new that Admiral Jellicoe thought her crew weren’t ready for a fleet action so he left her in Scapa Flow, and Ramillies and Resolution weren’t yet completed. Both ships survived the battle and claimed several hits on the German fleet.
As the Royal Navy’s newest battleships built before the post-war naval treaties came into effect, the Revenge class ships were retained and served through the Second World War. However, they had hardly been modernised, with modernisation efforts concentrated on the slightly older but larger and faster Queen Elizabeth class. As a result, the Revenge class ships were of limited usefulness in WWII due to their speed – perfectly adequate in WWI, but much too slow twenty years later. They generally served in shore bombardment, area denial and convoy escort roles.
Royal Oak was the only ship lost, torpedoed in Scapa Flow on the 14th of October 1939. She sank with the loss of over 800 lives. I laid down my minecraft replica in tribute, on the 14th of October 2014, the 75th anniversary of her sinking.
SMS G39 (1915)
The Großes Torpedoboot 1913-class were a group of (large) torpedo boats that were roughly equivalent to the Royal Navy's destroyers. It was only later that Germnay adopted the ‘destroyer’ name. The ships were named with a letter and a number. The letter represented the shipyard they were built at; G for Germaniawerft Kiel, S for Schichau Elbing, V for AG Vulcan Stettin. In typical Kaiserliche Marine fashion, they were painted black or dark grey, until changing to mid-grey shades later in the war.
SMS G39 was the leader of the First Torpedo Boat Flotilla at the Battle of Jutland. After Admiral Hipper was forced to abandon SMS Lützow due to the damage she had sustained, he transferred briefly to G39 before later transferring to the battlecruiser SMS Moltke.
SMS G39 was scuttled in Scapa Flow in 1919 along with the rest of the High Seas Fleet.
SMS Schleswig-Holstein (1906)
SMS Schleswig-Holstein was the last Pre-Dreadnought completed by Germany. She was the fifth and final ship of the Deutschland class, and was effectively made obsolete before being finished due to the rapid speed with which the Royal Navy built the revolutionary HMS Dreadnought.
However, despite their obsolete design, the Deutschland class were called on to be part of the High Seas Fleet's main battle fleet during the First World War, due to the fact that the Royal Navy heavily outnumbered the Kaiserliche Marine on Dreadnought-type ships. The five Deutschlands fought at Jutland along with the Braunschweig class SMS Hessen as the 2nd Battle Squadron. Admiral Scheer generally tried to keep them away from the fighting, but they saw action as they prevented the British battlecruisers from pursuing Hipper's battered Scouting Force. They were also engaged in the night fighting that followed, with SMS Pommern being struck by a torpedo which detonated her magazines and destroyed her.
By the end of 1916 they were withdrawn from frontline service, and were the newest capital ships that Germany was allowed to retain after the war. The newer ships had all been scuttled or ceded to the Allies. Schleswig-Holstein's fame comes from the fact that she fired the first shots of WWII when she fired on the Polish ammunition depot at Westerplatte. She participated in the invasion of Denmark, where she was grounded, and spent much of the next few years as a training ship. Eventually, she was used for convoy escort duty and severely damaged by RAF bombers. She was destroyed by the retreating Germans to prevent the Soviets capturing her.
SMS Westfalen (1908)
SMS Westfalen was one of the first dreadnoughts built for the Kaiserliche Marine, ordered alongside her sister ship (and lead ship of the class) SMS Nassau. They would be joined by a further two sisters, SMS Rheinland and SMS Posen.
The Nassau-class ships served together, forming the High Seas Fleet's 1st Battle Squadron, 2nd Division. They took part in most of the German sorties, and fought at Jutland, where they were the rearmost dreadnoughts in the German line. When Admiral Scheer ordered an about turn, the old pre-dreadnoughts were at the rear and therefore should have led the fleet after the turn but Westfalen's captain noticed the pre-dreadnoughts were out of position and began his turn immediately, taking the lead position.
Because the Nassau class began the battle as the rearmost dreadnoughts in the German fleet, they barely engaged the British captial ships. But as the German fleet tried to slip away during the night they were engaged in furious night-fighting with British cruisers and destroyers.
The Nassau class ships also served in the Baltic against the Russians, including the Battle of the Gulf of Riga, and were sent so support the White Finns in the Finnish Civil War in 1918. She was decommissioned in August 1918 as the war drew to a close after suffering significant boiler damage, and was kept in Germany after the newest units of the German Fleet were interned in Scapa Flow. After the fleet in Scapa Flow was scuttled, Westfalen was ceded to the allies as a replacement. She was sold for scrap in the UK.
HMS Invincible (1907)
HMS Invincible was one of a class of three battlecruisers built for the royal navy shortly after the completion of HMS Dreadnought. They were the world's first battlecruisers, and the brainchild of the First Sea Lord, Admiral John "Jacky" Fisher. The concept was for a ship that was as large and as heavily armed as a battleship, but sacrificed armour to achieve a much higher speed. Such a ship would be able to flee from a fight against slower battleships, chase down and destroy enemy cruisers and perform an effective role as a 'heavy scout' for the battlefleet.
Germany responded by laying down their own battlecruisers, starting with SMS Von der Tann. However, the German command were keen that the German ships should be better armoured and able to stand in line with the battlefleet, since they knew that the Kaiserliche Marine wouldn't be able to build battleships as quickly as the Royal Navy. Therefore, the German battlecruisers were a little slower and less heavily armed, but much better armoured than the British ships.
HMS Invincible and her sister HMS Inflexible seemed to vindicate the British battlecruiser concept when they chased down and destroyed Maximillian von Spee's cruisers in the Battle of the Falkland Islands, however they suffered later in the war. The battlecruisers were used aggressively in fleet actions, and relaxed their safety procedures in an attempt to increase their rate of fire. The results were plain when they fought the German battlecruisers at Jutland; the German battlecruisers took a pounding but kept fighting. The British battlecruisers suffered several spectacular explosions, due to a hit on one of their gun turrets flash-igniting the propellant charges that they had stacked in the turrets and corridors, through the open safety doors and exploding the main magazines. HMS Invincible was destroyed in this way, as were HMS Indefatigable and HMS Queen Mary.
HMS Invincible scored two hits on SMS Lützow below the waterline, which would ultimately sink the German ship, but she was destroyed herself by fire from SMS Lützow and SMS Derfflinger, her magazines detonating and blowing the ship in half. Only 6 men out of 1026 were rescued.
HMS Dreadnought (1906)
HMS Dreadnought was a revolutionary ship built for the Royal Navy in the first decade of the 20th century. She was the first 'all big gun' battleship, the largest battleship yet launched, and also equipped with new steam turbine engines to make her faster than previous battleships too. She made all ships before her obsolete and triggered a naval arms race in the lead-up to the First World War. On top of that, Dreadnought was built in record time, as a display of British industrial might and a statement that the Royal Navy weren't about to let other navies out-build them.
For such a revolutionary ship, she actually had a quiet career. Within five years, new 'super dreadnought' types were coming into service, greatly surpassing her in power and relegating her to an almost second-class battleship. Her most significant achievement came in 1915 when she rammed and sank the German submarine U-29, becoming the only battleship to ever sink a submarine. She missed Jutland as she was undergoing refit at the time, and was paid off and scrapped shortly after the war's end.
Fusō (扶桑) (1915)
Fusō was the lead ship of the Imperial Japanese Navy's Fusō class. They were a pair of super-dreadnoughts launched and commissioned during the First World War. They were heavily armed, carrying six centreline turrets for the main armament, and were thoroughly rebuilt in the 1930s, gaining the distinctive tall pagoda style mast that Japanese ships of the era were known for. I haven't built that version, but I'm certainly tempted to give it a go. I'll also probably do a version firing a broadside.
During World War II, the Fusōs were considered too slow to support the aircraft carriers, and filled auxiliary roles for most of the war. Fusō was sunk by the US Navy at the battle of Surigao Strait in 1944. She attempted to run a gauntlet of US torpedo boats and destroyers, but was torpedoed and sunk by USS Melvin. Her sister ship Yamashiro didn't last much longer; she was sunk after taking a battering from numerous US battleships.
HMS Minotaur (1906)
HMS Minotaur was the lead ship of her class of armoured cruisers, the last class of armoured cruiser built for the Royal Navy before their role was taken on by the new concept of the battlecruiser. Her design is quite characteristic in the large number of single turrets down the wings for the secondary armament.
Minotaur spent the first part of the First World War hunting for the German East Asia squadron. At the end of 1914 she joined the Grand Fleet and spent much of the war as a flagship of cruiser squadrons and on the Northern patrol routes. She was present at Jutland, but did not fire her weapons during the battle. She was paid off in 1919 and sold for scrap in 1920.
SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse (1897)
SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse was the first of four sister ships build for the Norddeutscher Lloyd line, launched in 1897. She heralded a new era of transatlantic liners, surpassing everything that had come before in size, speed and style. She was the first ocean liner with four funnels, and this quickly became a symbol of prestige in the liner business and influenced the choice of four funnels on later British liners like RMS Mauretania and RMS Olympic.
In the opening months of the First World War, she was converted into an auxiliary cruiser for the Imperial German Navy and successfully sunk several enemy ships before being sunk herself by the cruiser HMS Highflyer in the Battle of Río de Oro.
SM U-20 (1913)
U-20 was one of the 4 U-19 class U-boats built in the years leading up to the First World War. Famous for torpedoing the liner RMS Lusitania in 1915, she sunk a total of 144,300 tons of shipping. She was grounded off the Danish coast in 1916 after suffering engine trouble and was blown up by her own crew.
SMS Derfflinger (1913)
SMS Derfflinger was the lead ship of her class, a group of battlecruisers which marked a large improvement over the preceding SMS Seydlitz. They were also the last battlecruisers completed by Germany.
Derfflinger took part in most of the naval actions in the North Sea during WWI, including Dogger Bank and Jutland. She was heavily engaged at Jutland, delivering heavy damage to the British battlecruisers and taking a beating in return. Along with SMS Seydlitz, she caused HMS Queen Mary to explode spectacularly, then repeated the feat later on, this time in partnership with her sister ship SMS Lützow, destroying HMS Invincible. Hipper's battlecruisers were then forced to steam at the guns of the entire Grand Fleet in a 'death ride', to buy the High Seas fleet a chance to escape. They charged the Grand Fleet, then withdrew once the German dreadnoughts were clear. With the whole battlecruiser group damaged to quite an extent, Admiral Scheer ordered them to withdraw.
She was interned at Scapa Flow with the rest of the German High Seas Fleet after the armistice, where she was scuttled by her crew.
On a personal note, I think that the Derfflinger class are stunningly beautiful ships and they are personal favourites of mine.
HMS Iron Duke (1912)
HMS Iron Duke was the lead ship of her class of battleships, successors to the King George V class. Beginnng with the Orion class a few years before, the ships started to be considered "super dreadnoughts" due to their general advancements and superiority over the first generation of dreadnought battleships. Their design was based on that of the King George V’s, with the most notable change being an increase in the calibre of the secondary armament from 4” to 6”
Iron Duke served as the flagship of Admiral Sir John Jellicoe at the Battle of Jutland, where she landed several hits on SMS König. The Iron Duke class ships were the oldest battleships that the Royal Navy retained after the Washington Naval Treaty in 1921. She served with the Meditteranean fleet after the war, before being paid off in 1929 and recommissioned as a gunnery training ship.
The London Naval Treaty of 1931 stipulated that the Iron Duke class should be scrapped or otherwise demilitarised. Two of her sisters were scrapped shortly afterwards, and one was sunk as a target ship. Iron Duke however was retained; two of her gun turrets, most of her armour and some boilers were removed and she was used as a training ship. During WWII she was used as a base ship and floating anti-aircraft platform in the harbour of Scapa Flow and was scrapped after the war.
The version shown here has had several updates in order to make her match better with the real ship; this is what my first version ‘inspired by’ Iron Duke looked like:
Mar 31, 2011It appears that we lack a big guide/help/advice thread on making cities, and quite often does this section get a thread relating to "What do I build in my city?" Here is my fix:Posted in: Creative Mode
- This will not tell you how to build your city block-by-block, but aid you in constructing one of your own
- Feel free to use this thread as discussion for city building. Please make any posted images relevant to your point
- This thread may not cover all known ways, but it will be a good start. If you have something to add/discuss, feel free to post it here
- When the thread refers to anything related to textures, it assumes you are using the original texture pack unless it is said otherwise
- This has plenty of room to change, especially in the image department. Please feel free to comment or criticize in a constructive manner
- Looking for a list of things to build and could care less about everything else in the thread? See The List
Currently at [v3.0b] with updates coming in early 2015. Not forgotten
Table of Contents
[Click the section to skip to it]
Your world is huge and contains plenty of plains to create upon. It also features vast forests, deep ravines, towering mountains, twisting rivers and endless oceans. It has pigs, sheep, cows, chickens, zombies, skeletons, spiders and creepers. You have grown an attachment to this world, and TNT or restarting is just not an option; there must be another way. You have built multiple houses in your ventures, started a castle that quickly felt the wrath of the creepers, and you even have a laboratory for your short encounter with redstone. However, there is one last thing you should try before you let the world drop to the bottom of your worlds list: cities.
Cities can be anything from simple to complex, from copy&paste NPC villages to highly unique. You don’t need to have anything specific before you build a city, town or village, you CAN simply think one day, “I want to build a city here!”
Before you start planning/building a city, you should know what you are getting yourself into. This thread will make building cities an art, having sections dedicated to parts that you could care less about. These are all guidelines and can be overlooked, just don’t expect the awesome metropolis that UserX built if you skip over everything. To start building cities, all you need to start off is time... lots of it. Building just about anything in Minecraft is a lengthy task, and when you are building many individual structures, it will take a while. So why spend the time creating them? They will do wonders for your world, especially if you put the time into making your save “Digital Diamond” worthy. You could give your world a background story, cultures and civilizations. If you are willing to go the distance, they can even show relationships between locations/countries, economies and politics. The best part? You don’t need to write that all out, simply plan/build it.
There are many people who struggle with constructing cities, however. These reasons extend past time constraints and limited creativity. I’ll highlight some:
-Creepers love cities. It is a fact. They will hunt you down and blow a hole in your work. No exceptions
-Cities will take large chunks of time to complete, and not everyone is willing to put that much effort into them
-Is the glass half full or half empty? You will likely come face to face with reality: is that city dead, lacking all life, or are you building new civilizations with your bare hands?
-BUILDER'S-BLOCK! See below. It’s a horrible Minecraft sickness that mentally prevents you from building anything
Cities do take a lot of time to build, and they can take a lot of work done right. This guide will attempt to help you build a city right the first time so you don’t need to redo them. It will also assist in making cities more intriguing to other forum users. I will attempt to keep up to date so long as there is the need to keep it so.
Cities, Towns and Villages
There are numerous definitions for cities, towns and alike, and there really isn’t a fine line to tell them apart in the real world. However, we can define them to our liking. For a general outline, I’ll recommend this:
- Metropolis: Bigger than a city, a metropolis is a hub of economy, politics and culture. These would only exist in modern and maybe industrial styles/time periods.
- Cities: Large population centers, and (depending on the time period/style you are using) will have the toughest defences (a Roman city would have had massive walls, but does any modern city?) having walls, turrets and active guards at all times.
- Towns: Towns are lesser cities; being less grand and having not as much defence when applicable (think walls and a watch tower). Generally, a town would hold a population about five-eighths to two-thirds of the population of an average city.
- Villages: Think of Mob Villages already in Minecraft; tiny gatherings of houses with a minimal population. They would have poor to no defence, and would have a maximum of half an average cities population.
You may not be aware of this disease, but I guarantee you have encountered it. The Builder’s Block mental sickness has affected almost every Minecraft player at least once, and it is quite common. The disease is contagious, but in an odd manner; it will force someone to present the sickness publicly through a very uninformative and rushed forum thread. Humans are not susceptible to this form of transmission, however, and often find themselves trying to assist the victim by replying to the poorly created thread, often failing to do so. Fortunately, the sickness has not been proven to be fatal, but it has been known to mentally strain players who are affected.
There is a vague list of symptoms one might expect to feel. You may have Builder’s Block if you have something along the lines of the following:
- Lack of ideas to keep you busy in Minecraft
- The sudden disinterest of continuing a project in Minecraft
- Feeling bored
- The urge to hit one’s head against a nearby wall for ideas
- Uncontrollable urges to press [ESC] and [ALT]+[F4]
Treating Builder’s Block is usually harmless. First, attempt to ‘mine it off’. That is, mine for resources you may/may not need. If you are not willing to spend up to 3 hours trying to heal your sickness, try one of the following to get inspiration:
- Google: Look into random things like your favorite video game level or let’s play person.
- Minecraft Forums: Search the forum for other people’s projects and opt to help them out. DO NOT POST A THREAD; it will probably be overlooked or turn for the worst.
- Minecraft: Explore. See if something demands a structure or statue. That overhang is screaming at you to become an awesome hanging city.
- “THE LIST”: Directly below this section is “The List”. It is a massive compilation of things you can build
Looking for a list of things you can add to/build in your world? Below is a massive collection of structures, landmarks and other man-made ideas that are not limited by themes/styles/time periods. Feel free to use Google to learn about the things you do not know of.
Aether Portal LaboratoryFeel free to post your additions to this list.
Airport Control Tower
Asylum (Comes in a variety of purposes)
Bomb Shelter/Safe House
College (Academics, Magic, Mining…etc.)
Explosives Testing Flat
Flag Pole (With flag)
Government Building (Ex. Parliament Buildings, White House)
Meteor Impact Site
Mill (Lumber, Reed, Wheat...etc.)
Mine (Open Pit, Shaft, Strip)
Mob Examination/Testing Facility
Mob Spawn Building
Nether Portal Laboratory
Nuclear Missile Drop Tower
Nuclear Missile Testing Town
Oil Rig (on sea)
Orchard (Apple, Cherry, Orange...etc.)
Power Plant (Coal-Powered, Nuclear, Wind Turbines...etc.)
Redstone Facility (Place for redstone mechanics)
Space Ship Launch Pad
Store (Food, Supplies/Blocks, Tools, Weapons)
Subway/Mine Cart System
Tool Manufacturing Factory
Train Repair Facility
Walking Path (Through a forest/park)
Water Treatment Plant
Water Wheel Building
Basis of Building
There are a few things that form the very base of building a good looking and functioning city. The Elements and Principles of Building are what make up a city in theoretical manners. You should never just toss an element in because you like it, but work it into your plans. Otherwise your city will look bad and will not attract much positive attention.
The Basics of Building are basic elements that make a city look more like a city. They are small details that are not noticed until they are not there. Add them in where possible, but remember not to overuse things.
Elements and Principles of Block Building
Something to keep in mind if you are looking for a very awesome city is the Elements and Principles of Art/Design. Of course, these are mostly for cities that are being laid out before they are even built, but they can also be used unintentionally. To make the elements and principles more relevant to 3D pixel/block construction, I have altered the names and details of “The Elements and Principles of Design.”
- Layout: How easy it is to get around the city If your city has an unorganized layout, it may be difficult to get to a certain point. A good layout will allow players to get around easily, not deterring them from exploring. This is derived from “Line”, the connection from point A to point B.
- Shape/Form: The shape of buildings The shape of buildings will define a city. Square structures are very common, but triangular roofs are god houses, and long, flat roof houses are nice desert structures.
- Colour: The colours that define the city; could be used as a flag This will assist in unifying the city. It does not need to be complex, a simple 3-colour pattern can do (the French and Italian flags are just that). The colours could also determine relationships between cities (where colour selections from the colour wheel dictate friends/foes/neutrality).
- State: The state of the city: ruined, thriving, forgotten, ‘gold rush’…etc. The state of the city is very important when planning out a city. A thriving city will be much different than a deserted town, and it will also look different. This is derived from “Value”, using the lightness or darkness of colours to create contrast.
- Texture: The type of blocks used in buildings, streets, city clocks...etc. Making buildings look like they belong is a very important thing. Correctly using blocks to unify everything will make a good city great. This is a redefinition of “Texture”, which is implying texture on an artwork.
- Space/Perspective: How the city is built (Location, size/style) Using plains, cliff overhangs, floating islands and everything will affect the perspective on the city. A town built on a plain will be thought of as a ‘cookie-cutter city’ that lacks anything unique (which could be what you are looking for). The city built on the tip of a cliff overhang will seem superior and powerful. My personal favourite (which I still have yet to build) is the hanging city. It appears as a stealthy city holding something that doesn’t want to be found, like amazing architecture or treasures. This a redefinition of “Space/Perspective”, in which one manipulates positive and negative space, and uses perspective to give a 2D or 3D look.
- Pattern: The style of buildings and how they relate to the rest of the city Going hand in hand with “Unity” and “Texture”, pattern is used to make the city not look boring and uninteresting, but unique. Yet, not so unique as to make everything seem different in a bad way. Add unique patterns to a base building blueprint to refresh interest in your city.
- Rhythm/Movement: How easily the city can be navigated without a map Generally, if you need to hand out a map to every visitor, your city is way too confusing. Label structures, have some form of Main Street, and make popular things easy to access. Also, you should keep a realistic approach to building locations. Factories are not built beside a suburban location, nor are mine shafts right outside the town hall (well, this might be an exception; the game is MINEcraft).
- Proportion/Scale: Fitting the city to a proper size Don’t unendingly expand your city. Fit the city to the landscape and its purpose. A logging town isn’t going to be more than a gathering of a few houses and required mills, nor will that easily fit inside a dense forest. And that huge flat plain can be a creative location for a city, assuming it is built correctly.
- Balance: How effective the city building layout is Balancing the building layout is integral to planning a city. You don’t want to get people only to visit one half of your city, nor do you want to have to hand out maps so people can find buildings, so balance things out. Spread out important structures and draw attention to otherwise unnoticed ones.
- Unity: How well the city seems to relate to itself Unifying your buildings is important so that people know where they are. An un-unified city will have people getting lost, or, even worse, not know which city is which. Unifying your world of cities could create distinct countries or cultures.
- Emphasis: Emphasize buildings to have them stand out Emphasize the importance of buildings. Banks, stores and government buildings are very important, and you want them to stand out. Office buildings, houses and warehouses are expendable, so don’t needlessly make them over-detailed. On the other hand, if a big corporation owns the town, do you think they would have a copy&pasted design, or a towering 50 floor skyscraper with oversize windows.
The basics of building cities are really what make it look real. This isn’t about the actual basics, but what is missed when it’s not there. These are, rather, small details that will help you differentiate one city from another, and will help your city not look like you used MCEdit to copy&paste a building over and over.
- Names: Simple and straight forward. Adding a name will not only help you know which city you are in, but it can also develop background, allude to the towns purpose and give a sense on how big the cityis. Really large modern cities may have districts which differentiate the purpose of sections (seeing as modern cities are more self-sufficient).
- Unique Architecture: Cities shouldn’t be cookie-cutter buildings. Square/rectangular structures are fine, but they can get really repetitive fast. Having a variety of architectural designs (like rounded buildings) can only go so far to avoid this. Have cities with their very own architecture not seen elsewhere. This will help create an interesting atmosphere and gain the interest of more users. Some searches on Google for abstract architecture can really pay off.
- Organization: Keep things well organized. The last thing you want is to get lost in your own city because, chances are, any other person will only get more lost. Lay out plans that are logical and easy to understand (ever wonder why roads are really straight with buildings on the side nicely labeled?). Keeping things well labeled and sensible will aid in making a user-friendly environment which will get you more popularity.
- Standards: Should be used sparingly. Standards are how you build/construct/place one thing over and over. Having to many standards will give you a very bland and repetitive city, while not having enough will leave one wondering if one city is five. Leave the bigger things standard-free, like buildings and statues, but put standards on the small things like roads, lampposts and signs. You could even make rooftops the same colour to denote a certain kingdom.
- Locations: To prevent a city from being a building after building scenario, try adding unique locations like parks, statues and monuments. This will spike interest and likely grab the attention of more users. The amount of unique locations you need varies on the size of your city (tiny cities need next to none, while huge metropolises will need tons).
"Don't build a building for a purpose, put purpose into a building."
Styles and Themes
First off, this is my opinion and should not be considered official.
Styles and Themes are important for constructing many cities in one world. Though they sound very similar they are actually very different. Essentially, STYLES are how you build something and THEMES are what you build.
Use of styles and themes can really help make your world look good as a whole.
Styles in Minecraft are important because they denote a medieval town from a modern city. A style is how you build something. Below I will describe a few styles – not all of them, just some unique ones that I can come up with. It should be noted that these styles will be based off North American/European history (as I know them the best, and it seems most people already favour it).
- -Minecraft Old is slightly different from Minecraft New. Minecraft Old is the Medieval version of Minecraft. Cities hardly exist, instead Castles are built with towns inside their outer walls. When building walls, they should be tall and thick while the corners of a wall (the inner wall at the bare minimum) should contain a turret. A nice wall for a Minecraft castle is about 2x12 with turrets that go about 15 blocks high, of course you can set your own standards too. Just to point out, a castle doesn't always have a moat, it was used for defence for castles that rested close to the sea level/where built on fields. Common building materials include wood/log and cobblestone.
- -Minecraft New is the time of the New Land (North America) settlement. Contrary to Minecraft Old, castles are extremely rare. Forts are constructed as a replacement and differ because a fort is more of a military force than a place under someone's rule. Forts usually do not have towns next to them like castles did. Settlements in Minecraft New vary in their size, but are usually surrounded by some form of light defense (such as a fence or short cobblestone wall). Light defensive towers do exist in larger towns, but nothing of the massive stone turrets a fortress may have. The most common building materials include wood, cobblestone and brick (on occasion). Smooth stone should not be used for a building material (people carried rocks to build a wall, not rock walls).
- -Redstone Punk is a hate-able name for Minecraft’s style of steam punk. Steam punk is a cross of fantasy and science fiction where steam-power is prominent. Redstone punk is Minecraft where redstone use is huge and fantasy exists. The world thrives off the existence of one or two massive metropolises, and cities look like towns with industry thrown on it. The fantasy bits come in because it would be perfect to have a huge metropolis on that floating island.
- -Industrial is a more modern feel, think around the era of WWII. Factories, warehouses, companies and all are very big, while castles and forts are historical sights. Buildings in these cities should be huge in comparison to those in the other styles, and these cities should not be surrounded by a wall or such. Often a city will have districts that keep things organized. The main building materials include smooth stone, ore blocks (iron, gold, diamond and lapiz lazuli so long as these ore blocks are not abused), brick and glass. You may also consider making districts (sections of the city for specific purposes, eg. industrial, housing..etc.) as it is very rare that there are houses next to factories or ports.
- -Modern is a recreation of right now back to the post-cold war era. The world isn’t all about new, it’s about better. The economy is rather stable, and rebuilding/refurbishing old castles and forts is affordable. Architecture is being revisited with new ideas, and big industry has turned into environmental concerns. The materials are parallel to the Industrial style, but skyscrapers and office buildings feature huge amounts of glass. When you build a large skyscraper, it should avoid the classic box design (think round, triangular, angled…etc.). Building a few castles that are being rebuilt can also be a good investment.
Themes are not necessary in every city you have, but they do help make a difference between cities. Themes are ideas your city is built around. A good example of a theme for Minecraft is a mining town theme. This would mean that most of the buildings are wooden shacks with a mineshaft/pit nearby or inside the town among other utilities for miners (tool shed, warehouse...etc.). I'm not going to list a bunch of themes (I don't feel the need to), just remember not every city needs a theme, otherwise everything is so different that nothing seems to connect.
Anyone who has ever played Minecraft knows how important materials. For instance, cobblestone is the best building material because you are always trying to get rid of it (or at least when playing survival). Materials are a critical part of a city, and not just because they determine how good your city looks. To make the best city possible, it is important to determine the materials to use and how to use them. Do note: This section is not written in stone, and can easily be debated, please feel free to share your opinion.
There are 3 basic categories of materials: Base Materials, Secondary Materials and Detail Materials. Whether or not you use them is your call, but they all do something to a building. The last thing I want to say before I begin is that rules can be broken when done right. If you know what you are doing, feel free to ignore every single thing I say not to do.
We all know what a Base Material is: whatever you want to build the building out of. Usually, the base material is some form of raw block like cobblestone. As you need stacks upon stacks of this material, it is highly advised not to go with something less common than brick, and even then it may be difficult to amass enough of it.
I recommend avoiding expensive blocks, even if you aren’t in survival. The block value greatly decreases in large amounts and has a much higher probability of being an eyesore. Diamond, gold and obsidian blocks are these kinds of materials.
As you probably know, different base materials define the style of building. You remember styles, right? Wooden planks, cobblestone and wool all give a more medieval look to a building while smooth stone, stone brick, glass and clay brick can look quite modern. From what I have seen, iron bocks, white wool and obsidian seem to be big for science fictional creations (well, a wooden spaceship would just look stupid).
Generally, a builder will construct the creation with the base material and then add the secondary and detailing materials afterwards. However, if you’re working with difficult blocks (smooth stone or obsidian (I warned you)) then it may be much faster to incorporate them as you build
For example, here is your wall. The base material is smooth stone.
You have you cube household of wood, but it looks boring and uninteresting. Secondary materials will add the interest that the base material cannot achieve alone. We all know 1 material on a wall is boring, but checkering between 2 materials grabs people eyes. Welcome to Secondary Materials.
The use of secondary materials is to change up the solid block wall you have, whether it is by crossing 2 materials or outlining a buildings edge. Once you have you base material, replace appropriate blocks with a secondary material. As you will not need stacks upon stacks of secondary material, you can get more expensive. Gold trimming might just be what you’re office building lacks. Some ideas are smooth stone, wood logs, ore blocks, cloth, obsidian and so on. DO not forget to stand back and see how your creation looks. The worst thing to do is outline everything in obsidian and realize the building looks horrible and you need to tear it down.
So now you have an interesting wall. The next step is detail materials. You want windows, you want furniture, you want an entrance. Fill that empty shell of a building you have: use glass or glass panes for windows, wood stairs for chairs, a fence with pressure plate on top to make a table and even more. I told you this wasn’t an interior decorators guide so find out what looks good for yourself.
The idea for detailing materials is to add the function or extra bit of interest in your creation. Whether it be window sills, shutters, tables, chairs, fire places or whatever, put function into that building
Typical techniques in building require patterns, as I said above. What a pattern does is make something stick out (such as obsidian against stone), and so a smooth stone/cobblestone checkered wall will get the first look over a plain cobblestone wall. You don’t need much imagination, an easy checkerboard pattern will work, or maybe you want to seem imaginative and go for some patchwork of cobblestone on the smooth stone wall to make it look aged and ruined.
You would be surprised at the amount of people that hate the use of certain blocks for their looks. If you decide to use these as building materials, expect a lot of mad posters.
-Cobblestone: Apparently a small portion the community thinks it looks ugly, period. If you use it at all, they will either post their hate or ignore it completely. However, it is generally accepted that it looks bad when used excessively (like as a base material). Cobblestone is best used in patterns (whether as the base or secondary material).
-Gravel: Well, since this thread began, gravel received a nice texture-fix. Although still not pleasing to build with, it can be used well for flooring or regenerating walls.
-Diamond/Gold Block: When overused, it tends to scream hacking and looks terrible. It’s good to build with, don't get me wrong; just don't make a building of mostly diamond/gold. Iron tends to be more acceptable, but still add some limits.
-Using anything in large quantities will gather a load of complaints. Space things out well, and add patterns and people might accept your iron/gold/diamond wall.
Texture packs: the bane of the Minecraft Builder. If you ever plan on releasing a world file to the public, you must be very careful in what texture pack you are using. Why is this? Because texture packs have the tendency to make blocks look very different.
The above image is split between a custom texture pack and the default (left being the custom one and the right being default). The place looks a bit different with the texture packs, especially the brick. In the custom texture pack, clay bricks are grey and change the atmosphere of the place. In the default, the brick stands out against the grey everything-else, while the custom texture pack sees it being more fitting.
This is the kind of thing you want to be weary of when building a “public world”. There is a basic rule for this situation: have the default texture pack in mind when building. Most texture packs follow the default textures, so it is the safest bet. If you have a very specific texture pack that steers away from the default texture pack, include it and tell people to use it. The worst thing is to have people looking at your creation the wrong way.
One of the first things to consider when building a city is how you design it. There are 3 used plans, and a 4th that is just not bothering to plan it out. You can follow a certain design, make a hybrid or make your own design with some of the guidelines here. I'll outline the patterns, not tell you how to build them.
Designing a city does have some standards that you may wish to follow: Town halls are always in a city, while churches should be used for the Minecraft New & Old styles. A main road should connect these buildings to the main exit of the town, and it is very plausible to have smaller roads branching off for larger cities.
Suggested Style: Industrial
-Easy to expand
-Looks neat and organized
-Easy to traverse
-Only effective when there are a dozen or more buildings
-It gets repetitive fast if you don't have new building plans
The grid-line pattern is a pretty basic pattern for anybody to use. Many cities today use it which is why I recommend using the Industrial Style, not to say that it wouldn't work with others. The entire city follows similar guidelines to keep things looking organized (all main roads are 3 blocks wide, while side roads are only 2), but this also means things get boring fast unless you have interesting building designs. Once you have 5 buildings in a row of very similar materials, shapes and sizes your city becomes repetitive and thus an eyesore.
Suggested Style: Minecraft New & Old
-Easy to expand
-Little planning required
-Doesn't need lots of buildings
This pattern is really just a collection of buildings with roads winding through it. It is highly effective in giving a village the "this is a remote" atmosphere to it. This design has no cons, but peoples preferences may lead to them avoiding this. There isn't any specific guidelines that must be followed, just put buildings here and there and have roads between them.
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Suggested Style: Any
-Looks really good
-Easy to defend
-Easy to traverse
-Tedious work to setup
-Can't really expand
The tiered pattern is a really interesting pattern. It uses different heights to show what life-style the people live in. Imagine a castle on a hill. At the bottom you have houses, above that are markets and smiths, and at the top is the keep. Take this, but down-scale it and it might not have the keep. The idea is to have houses on the lowest level, markets and higher labor workers (smiths, tailors and craftsmen) on the second, and the king/government/church at the top. However, setting this up requires large amount of landscaping, so don't expect an easy job.
Note: you can get away with having 1 road from the entrance to the top tier, just ensure to leave walking room between buildings.
Suggested Style: Non-Industrial/Modern
-Looks really good and unique
-Easy to traverse
-Simple building style
-Size is limited by time
The radial pattern works in a similar way to districts, but everything is branching out from a central point. You can arrange this pattern to function like the tiered pattern, both function like an onion: layers. The tiered pattern focuses on authority/riches/royalty while the radial pattern focuses on importance/defence. The focus of the radial pattern is the center point. Usually, the center would be something akin to a political structure, but if your city has a theme it could change (to a massive mine for a mining town, or a military headquarters for a military city). Expanding is easy, the only thing to be cautious about is centralizing the important structures.
It doesn't matter what design you pick, but I'm going to reference the standards I went over before as they come in handy when designing a city. Pick how you want your city to look. Do you want to give houses yards in front/back or have them right up against the "curb". Do you want all buildings in an area to be two or more stories to make it look like downtown, or keep them to one story suburbs? These things will denote exactly what you can do to your city later.
Districts have been mentioned more than once during this guide, and yet I think I can still make a section out of it. The point of having districts is to concentrate buildings of a certain type to keep your city organized. Usually, labeling districts isn’t required; the change of materials/structures should be a give-away. However, one may still wish to add in signs for aesthetics.
Determining if you need districts
Only really large cities are required to have districts, especially in Minecraft. Small cities would not be ideal for districts, but a huge metropolis would be confusing without them. A city that one builds casually will not run into the need for districts, but a city coming from an expert builder (in scale) is highly likely to include such a feature.
A couple projects I have found can give you an idea on how large a project must be to create districts:
The Horizon City zombie apocalypse map: When completed, the city is supposed to be 1000x1000 blocks. The only way to keep players sane (and not lost) is to separate the city into districts.
The Mineton city: It’s massive, it’s based off real architecture, and it’s quite cool to look at. Although it lacks specified districts it does separate out into downtown, suburban and farmland locations.
Building a city with districts
Casual players be warned: planning is a keystone with districts. And not the 2-seconds-in-MSPaint kind, the hour-long-brainstorming variety.
To build districts, you need to plan, heavily plan. What do I mean? You need to know what you are building, where you are building it, and how big it is. In other words:
- You need to know what buildings are going into your city. The whole point of districts is to separate different types of buildings (mining, processing, storage, housing…etc.)
- You need a location, and design around that. If your city is by the coast, you’ll probably want some form of docks incorporated. If you’ve got a narrow space, you shouldn’t design a large city to find out it won’t fit.
- You need to scale your districts appropriately. Cities will often focus around a few key districts, and so they will be larger than others. Also, you need to make sure there are enough buildings in each district and make sure the player can always know which district they are in and when they enter a new one (you can do walls, signs, different building materials, different building architecture…etc.)
This is mainly for those interested in making kingdoms and alike, but it can apply to cities/town. Giving your city history can make the world more interesting. If you are making a city, then you can add monuments/memorials/statues for certain wars/battles/events. Maybe there was a huge Creeper War where half the city was destroyed (in which case you would build a statue of a Creeper or have a blasted building/wall), or was there an earthquake that split 1 island into 2? Adding these can take up empty spaces and make potential players more interested in exploring the city. The theme of the city could also be related to any events that happened (a miner town with lots of gold left over from a gold rush). The city could even be named after events (using the previous gold rush example, the town could be named Yellow Cliff).
If you are making a kingdom, you can go a bit farther with this because you are not limited to the city limits (not that you were before). You could make the events rather than represent them only in cities. Maybe there was a meteor shower that demolished a town, leaving behind lit netherrack and lava, or perhaps it was there a gold rush near a mountain, in which there are many abandoned mining towns lying around with mines speckled with gold. You could even make cities enemies of each other by creating battlefields between them (whether crater filled plains or empty, collapsed trenches).
Ancient Golem, created by FirstBreed
Going past the basics of building would mean you wish to do architecture. Of course this is optional, as you only really need the basics to make amazing things, but architecture tends to make them different. Making nice building designs is what this section talks about.
When talking architecture in Minecraft, you talk about many things. Basic architecture is the shape of your building. Average player architecture brings around things like roofing (using steps), shutters for windows, fenced yard...etc. Advanced architecture is above all of these. Adding things like second story balconies, interesting columns, statues and grand staircases are example of advanced architecture. A good thing to note is that architecture really makes something stand out and adds a level of detail into the structure, making it much more eye pleasing (meaning people will look at it longer).
Advanced architecture is a great way to create an economically diverse city. Higher class buildings would have a lot more architecture than a lower class home (assuming the lower class has any). These upper class buildings may also include higher ceilings, art galleries, new ways for lighting (glowstone hanging from a pillar of fence posts)...etc.
Detailing a City
Bringing architecture into the entire city is not only easy, but it is very effective. There are plenty of small things people don’t always notice directly, but it adds to the entirety of the area. Lamp posts, a common example, aren’t individually noticed, but without them the city looks barren and deserted. In combination with seemingly small details, you can add history to an area.
To expand, one can add architecture and structures that aren’t so common. Roman aqueducts and underground sewers heavily inspire players to explore the corners of your city to see if you added secrets. Combine that with secret rooms, some “easter eggs” and your city will reward players if they look around your creation.
Building with Pistons and Redstone
Redstone can do some interesting things to a city, although more limited to non-historical styles. With the addition of redstone lamps and pistons, there are many more things you could do past the few I mention below.
Have you ever built a large warehouse? You may not know how to make a 3x3 opening door, but try a 2x2 piston door attached to a lever. Or perhaps have hanging lamps you can turn on/off. Of maybe you don’t have a warehouse, but that mansion is missing something. Try having pistons pushing and retracting lamps along the yard; a sort of night light system.
Having a redstone punk world changes lots of things. Automated doors and lights are likely what you’d start with, but dispenser storage, redstone detection systems and traps shouldn’t go unnoticed. And what happens when the main power is cut off inside the massive airship you built? Think you are clever enough to make an emergency lighting system (redstone torches activated when the main lights are not)?
Not to forget the classic hidden doorways stashed around servers. And with the upcoming tripwires, more things become possible.
Building to a Scale
There are a couple ways to build to a scale in Minecraft. The first way is to rebuild something, usually an image or graphic, using blocks (represented in an image by single pixels). This is commonly done through, but not limited to, pixel art. This is easy to accomplish and requires minimal amounts of skill in the game. The second way, however, is much different: it is rebuilding an object in Minecraft using recorded dimensions, images and alike. This requires extensive knowledge on the topic and a large amount of resources to complete. There are many projects where people try and recreate buildings or vehicles in Minecraft (such as the U.S.S. Enterprise or the Titanic). Advanced players will use a hybrid system in which they use given details of an object combined with fitted images to complete their project accurately.
System 1 – The Grid Line Technique
When planning a large project, many people use simple image editing programs (such as MSPaint or Gimp) to make blueprints. This technique is very effective as each pixel in the image becomes a block in Minecraft. However, people often want to recreate stuff from real life, and so it becomes a lot more complicated than building it pixel by pixel. The fix for that is a technique widely used that is based off the Grid Method created by Leonardo Da Vinci (where you would draw grid lines on an artwork and copy the image over square by square). The Grid Line Technique (as I shall call it) is a method of blocking out an image by using squares (so that you can build it in Minecraft square by square).
First you find a reference image to use (make a back-up in case you need to refer to the original). For this example I shall use the older Mojang Logo. Do note I am using Gimp.
Next you create a grid. Gimp carries a useful tool that allows you to configure a grid on the image. This is useful because MSPaint may have the grid option, but it shrinks as you zoom, and I don't have Photoshop to comment on it. To access Gimps grid (for the image) go to "Image>Configure Grid..." and "View>Show Grid" to see it. I have set my grid to 12px X 12px as the image is 200 pixels large.
The last step is to decide what a block is and what isn't, because I guarantee that the image doesn't perfectly fit the grid. The general rule is that if the square has most of the object inside it, you make it a block. If the object is barely/somewhat in the square, blank it out. If it’s 50/50, then make it a block (or half block if it works). Tip: if you use this technique for graphics (as these images were originally intended, not to say this won't work as a statue) then you use the colour at 50% alpha/transparency.
I removed the grid to see the final plan, and this is how it turned out. Now you have a Minecraft friendly image of the Mojang Logo (or whatever you used as an image).
But wait! This isn't building to scale, just remaking buildings in Minecraft. Why did I go over the above despite the section being titled Building to a Scale? Because you need to get your building plan before you can scale it. The task is much easier now that you have the Minecraft friendly plan.
Right now your image is blocks, and if the image is 6 squares wide but the image is supposed to be a house that's 18 blocks wide. Because you just spent awhile making the plans from above, you just want to build it and avoid redoing what you already did. Since the image is in equal blocks, it’s safe to assume you see it with a 1:1 ratio for scale, meaning every block in Minecraft is a grid square on your image. Basic math tells us that 6x3=18, so a 3:1 ratio fixes your problem because 3 blocks in Minecraft equals 1 square in the image.
Let’s change the example so that the image is 18 grid squares in width, and your statue is supposed to be 6 blocks wide. You can reverse the 3:1 ratio so that you get a 1:3 (where every block in Minecraft represents 3 grid squares). Now down-scaling is not optimal as the above Grid Line Technique does just this, and you lose a lot more detail when 1 block means 3 squares.
System 2 – Realistic Scale
Welcome to engineering class, where your simple Minecraft creation becomes a massive project despite being the size of a fishing boat. Using realistic scale is very, very helpful when building massive structures or vehicles (like the Titanic, the U.S.S. Enterprise, or New York). In a nutshell, you gather as much information on the creation in question: dimensions, materials/colours, builders… mostly dimensions.
Minecraft is great for rebuilding things as everything in the game is the same size: 1 meter x 1 meter cubes. Like the gridline technique, you’re converting real dimensions into MC Cubes. I don’t need diagrams or pictures, just know that having a 1.5 kilometer spaceship does not mean a 1.5 kilometer Minecraft creation (unless you want that).
Oh, one last technique: eyeball it. Double check your vision and rebuild the creation just as you see. It might not be scaled or too detailed, but it’s quick and easy to do (although, not easy to do well ).
Versions are changed on the amount changed (so if a new section is added, expect the version to go up, while a few additions to some of the existing sections will just be an update)
V3.0b<br>-This is now in a spoiler and a code tag<br>-Complete revision following the ‘Materials’ section<br>-New ‘Texture Pack’ section<br>-New ‘Building with pistons and redstone’ sub-section<br>-New text<br>-New images<br>-Spelling/Grammar fixes<br><br>V3.0a<br>-Complete revision up to ‘Materials’ section<br>-New ‘Elements and Principles of Block-Building’ section<br>-New ‘Cities, Towns and Villages’ subsection<br>-New images (need more)<br>-Converted final blurb into ‘Final Notes’<br><br>V2.2<br>-A couple spelling fixes<br>-Minor grammar fix<br>-Added more to the building list<br><br>V2.1<br>-Fixed post up for new formatting<br>-Added more to the building list<br>-Minor spelling/grammar edits<br><br>V2.0<br>-Added ‘City Designs’ section<br>-Added ‘Detailing a City’ sub-section under Advanced Architecture<br>-Added more to the buildings list<br>-Image layout changes (added/moved...etc)<br><br>v1.1<br>-Added Change Log<br>-Added more images<br>-Minor text modifications<br><br>v1.0<br>-Public release
Have something to dispute? What about comments or thanks?
I’m happy to receive comments or criticism of all forms. The only way for this to get batter is with feedback from those who see this and spread it around.
What if you have something to add to this Hints&Tips guide? I’d be glad to receive some more material for this post. Whether it is a new section, a note or two to expand on an existing one, or useful/related screenshots of your own work, I’ll see how I can add it in. Do note that images must be either 800x600px (long) or 600x800px (tall).
Apparently my updates on this thread are quite spread out (think months), but I do try and make any update a big update. I’ll keep this up and going as long as there is a need be for it, so don’t be afraid to bump this thread to post something useful (make sure the mods would approve of it; I am not responsible if you get warned (or worse)).
Jun 24, 2014Posted in: Server Support and Administration
There appears to be a few spacing issues, try this file and see if it works:
Mar 17, 2014Posted in: Hardware & Software SupportQuote from Thescorpi0n
Reliability is fine, and the Pro is absolutely not worth it. It's a major price increase, which gives you an almost unnoticeable speed advantage in the real world.
OK, thanks everybody I will be going with the EVO then.
I might also be needing recommendations for regular HDDs for storage, But that is another topic...
Mar 17, 2014Posted in: Hardware & Software SupportQuote from Lyleeo
Edit - Only just realised you're working on a laptop. To this i would say get a new PC but i know we cant all afford to just go out and buy a new unit. I know i cant anyway. Unfortunately i Dont think i can help you other than to suggest something like the Razer Game Booster. Its quite useful and i used to use it on my old laptop myself. Here take a look!:
Feb 2, 2014Posted in: General GamingQuote from Sargeant_om_nom
Any of the Elder Scrolls series, but particularly
Aka The Elder Scrolls Online.
Really? I played the beta, and it was a heaping garbage pile. $60, $15 a month, cash shop, THE IMPERIAL CLASS IS ONLY FOR PRE-ORDER BONUS EDITIONS!! Enemies re-spawn less than 20 seconds after you kill them, the gameplay is mediocre.. It's going to be a bigger trainwreck than SWTOR.
I expect it to be free to play in mere months after release.
Is that the only game you've ever played?
You have an Xbox and you call PSN absolute filth?
PC Master Race.
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