It's a program to set the color of your screen throughout the day. Like sunlight during day, aka normal, and like your lights at night, aka yellow-ish, depending on your settings.
Your monitor is set to mimic the color of the sun in its light, but you don't see the sun at ten-thirty.[1] Normally, this causes you to lose sleep, as your brain needs to adjust for the different lighting. This would be spread out over the evening, but in this case, it takes longer. With this program, your monitor is set according to your location and type of lighting, and changes appropriately, so that you can sleep well even after playing TF2 until 1AM.[WARNING: You probably won't feel good in the morning after doing that.] Sources below. You're welcome.
While by natural I am nocturnal, this is what I amusingly call "public scare tactics".
Sources or not, people wish to control people. This is some of the measly things they try and do.
Your monitor is best at maximum brightness and gamut. And you should be if you can afford and its best to invest into computer designed eyewear (glasses). These are not normal glasses, but designed to prevent glare on the eye which will strain them. Normally people who have prescription eye glasses have anti-glare anyway and will be fine, such can be said from me in which I do wear prescription eye glasses.
Not to say I use the computer for at max 14 hours a day in the most extreme cases. Has my sleep ever got messed up? No, it has not, I still wake up at the same time very day, or I should say night.
*Reason nocturnal, I hate this "family" of which I miserably live with and nighttime is when I do not have to see their faces or hear bickering and so forth.
This thread is just a pseudo effect. If you believe that it works, therefore it works because you believe it works.
*Reason nocturnal, I hate this "family" of which I miserably live with and nighttime is when I do not have to see their faces or hear bickering and so forth.
While by natural I am nocturnal
*Reason nocturnal, I hate this "family" of which I miserably live with and nighttime is when I do not have to see their faces or hear bickering and so forth.
during the summer when I don't have to deal with school, I sleep during the day for that reason, in the basement so no light gets down there anywhere near my face that could mess up my sleep schedule, along with wearing amber-tinted anti-glare glasses when working on a computer, or near my florescent lights, those actually work, not the monitor shading or tinting program referenced above, get a pair of these: http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/c411/
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2kUq0
the average script-follower/lack of common sense: http://www.techtales.com/tftechs.php?m=200504#8418
windoge 8 has the saddest excuse for a BSOD, it just tells you the type of error, no stop code, no nothing, just "something went wrong, all your unsaved work has now been lost to the void that is volatile memory"
I never get eyestrain when using the computer. I always use it in a well-lighted room though, maybe it only happens in dark rooms? I'm not a fan of using it in the dark.
“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.” — Albert Einstein
"Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig." — Robert Heinlein
I've been using f.lux for quite a long time now (seven months?), and it's been really useful. I don't know whether or not it's a placebo effect, but I feel like it's been working for me.
I've used f.lux on my iPhone and desktop for a while now, and I love it. I think I'm at ~4000K for each one. Doesn't this work on roughly the same principle as those Gunnar shades? Both seem to try and block or reduce blue light hitting the eyes.
i5 4670k @ 4.9GHz - Stock Heatsink - The rest is melted silicon but I think I have a graphics card in there somewhere It surprises me how many people on this forum can't read benchmarks.
Doesn't this work on roughly the same principle as those Gunnar shades? Both seem to try and block or reduce blue light hitting the eyes.
Computer glasses are designed to filter blue and anti glare. f.lux cannot block glare as it is physically impossible to. a phyiscal lens is needed to "scramble" the reflection.
In all, reduction in color gamut is useless to those who rely on absolute colors anyway. IE, Photographists, Artists, Movie Producers, Game developers, and the list goes on.
Don't use this if you need to do colour accurate work though, it will mess up the colours a lot.
Honestly I just leave my monitor on its brightness (mines at 21% but it will vary for each monitor and each monitor has a different max brightness) and it's all good. Don't need to adjust it at all.
Don't use this if you need to do colour accurate work though, it will mess up the colours a lot.
That's hardly true. Monitors are generally at their best when set to ~120cd/m^2 which is a fair whack lower than max brightness on most monitors.
When you set a monitors brightness lower on the panel itself than maximum. You do not actually dim the back LED/Lamps. What you are doing is causing pulse modulation of the LEDs or Lamps which rapidly flicker to make it appear "darker". This is also when people who have sensitive enough eyes can detect flicker and blame it on low FPS or a bad monitor.
As amusing of a concept it is, such is valid so. Or when doing digital art, to low of a brightness affects the saturation value of the colors you are using and the overall piece may not look the same to others, as it does not anyway. This is why I suggest using max Gamut and Bright values as a "universal" color level.
When you set a monitors brightness lower on the panel itself than maximum. You do not actually dim the back LED/Lamps. What you are doing is causing pulse modulation of the LEDs or Lamps which rapidly flicker to make it appear "darker". This is also when people who have sensitive enough eyes can detect flicker and blame it on low FPS or a bad monitor.
As amusing of a concept it is, such is valid so. Or when doing digital art, to low of a brightness affects the saturation value of the colors you are using and the overall piece may not look the same to others, as it does not anyway. This is why I suggest using max Gamut and Bright values as a "universal" color level.
That's only on some monitors, my monitor for example, doesn't use PWM dimming and more and more monitors are starting to turn it aside.
Anyway, most monitors are professionally calibrated at around the 120-140cd/m^2 mark as I mentioned before because it's the most pleasing to the eyes and causes far less eyestrain than max brightness. Go on a well regarded monitor reviewing site such as prad.de or tftcentral.co.uk and you will see it's so.
Plus at max brightness the black levels on the monitor are going to be absolutely horrendous and people needing monitors for colour accurate work just calibrate their monitors using external calibration tools (colorimeters). They don't just pop the brightness to max as a 'universal' level. They match the colours on the screen as close to colours in real life as they can to insure their monitors are as accurate as possible.
That's only on some monitors, my monitor for example, doesn't use PWM dimming and more and more monitors are starting to turn it aside.
I do not even this. When you have no PWM, which those lol wtf expensive pointless monitors have past 20% brightness, you do not have "flicker" from back-light. You have a more unstable issue with color or in worst case scenario color flickering or instability. Not to say almost all (if to say all) Non-PWM inducing monitors all have a coating, mostly a anti glare coating in one form or another. Some have a light layer, the others a heavy layer.
Anyway, most monitors are professionally calibrated at around the 120-140cd/m^2 mark as I mentioned before because it's the most pleasing to the eyes and causes far less eyestrain than max brightness.
Software Calibrated means something you know. You calibrate to what your eyes like, not what everyone tells you to calibrate to. Set monitor to maximum settings excluding overdrive and so forth like those, software calibrate. I guess you forgot those little details eh?
Go on a well regarded monitor reviewing site such as prad.de or tftcentral.co.uk and you will see it's so.
I have no idea what those sites are about really. The one just looks as if dedicated to Dell. The other is not even in english and google translate is unreliable. So I have no idea why you are telling to go to such.
Plus at max brightness the black levels on the monitor are going to be absolutely horrendous and people needing monitors for colour accurate work just calibrate their monitors using external calibration tools (colorimeters). They don't just pop the brightness to max as a 'universal' level. They match the colours on the screen as close to colours in real life as they can to insure their monitors are as accurate as possible.
Black levels will still be black on LEDs. LED backlit panels literally turn off the LED in those pixel zones to create true black or shades of gray. Again one shouldn't calibrate by monitor OSD and instead software level calibrate. As well this is what professional calibration tools do, they for example in windows create a DCCW profile.
I do not even this. When you have no PWM, which those lol wtf expensive pointless monitors have past 20% brightness, you do not have "flicker" from back-light. You have a more unstable issue with color or in worst case scenario color flickering or instability. Not to say almost all (if to say all) Non-PWM inducing monitors all have a coating, mostly a anti glare coating in one form or another. Some have a light layer, the others a heavy layer.
No idea why you're linking PWM with anti-glare coatings but pretty much every monitor excluding glossy monitors have an anti-glare coating. Not just ones that don't use PWM dimming. Also, if you're saying very expensive monitors all have PWM dimming, you're wrong again. It's beginning to be really phased out. My monitor cost $500+ and it doesn't have it. There are many monitors even more expensive that don't have it.
PWM dimming can cause the colours to change as the brightness does. Read about it here.
Software Calibrated means something you know. You calibrate to what your eyes like, not what everyone tells you to calibrate to. Set monitor to maximum settings excluding overdrive and so forth like those, software calibrate. I guess you forgot those little details eh?
I'm talking about proper colour accuracy. Seeing things the way they would look IRL, not how you would like them to look.
Not even sure what you're talking about overdrive for. Overdrive helps to reduce motion blur and ghosting, nothing to do with colour adjustment.
I have no idea what those sites are about really. The one just looks as if dedicated to Dell. The other is not even in english and google translate is unreliable. So I have no idea why you are telling to go to such.
These are probably the two most well regarded sites in the accuracy of their measurements and opinions in their reviews. They specialise in reviewing monitors and they are very good at it.
Check some of their reviews and see how they go about measuring things and calibrating their monitors.
Black levels will still be black on LEDs. LED backlit panels literally turn off the LED in those pixel zones to create true black or shades of gray. Again one shouldn't calibrate by monitor OSD and instead software level calibrate. As well this is what professional calibration tools do, they for example in windows create a DCCW profile.
Lol, no they don't. The only monitors that can do that and get true blacks are OLED monitors and they cost thousands of dollars. The backlight is ALWAYS on in LED and LCD monitors unless the monitor itself is off.
Software calibration is stupid. It relies on your eyes. You really think your eyes are going to be more accurate than devices that were constructed to get accurate colours? Some people like saturated colours so they oversaturate them in their settings. They may be happy with their settings but they're probably going to be very far off accurate. Remember, I'm talking about colour accuracy, not personal preference.
Read the section here from tft central for more information. (scroll down till you find the section about hardware and software calibrations if you want)
It's a program to set the color of your screen throughout the day. Like sunlight during day, aka normal, and like your lights at night, aka yellow-ish, depending on your settings.
Your monitor is set to mimic the color of the sun in its light, but you don't see the sun at ten-thirty.[1] Normally, this causes you to lose sleep, as your brain needs to adjust for the different lighting. This would be spread out over the evening, but in this case, it takes longer. With this program, your monitor is set according to your location and type of lighting, and changes appropriately, so that you can sleep well even after playing TF2 until 1AM.[WARNING: You probably won't feel good in the morning after doing that.] Sources below. You're welcome.
[1]http://www.webmd.com/sleep-disorders/news/20030620/nighttime-computer-users-may-lose-sleep
[2]http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/249592.php
[3]http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/09/10/really-using-a-computer-before-bed-can-disrupt-sleep/
[4]http://www.naturalnews.com/033413_melatonin_sleep_disorders.html
[5]http://www.cnn.com/2010/TECH/05/13/sleep.gadgets.ipad/index.html
[6]http://www.berkeleywellness.com/healthy-mind/sleep/article/it%E2%80%99s-late-turn-computer
My eyes feel better now
+1
While by natural I am nocturnal, this is what I amusingly call "public scare tactics".
Sources or not, people wish to control people. This is some of the measly things they try and do.
Your monitor is best at maximum brightness and gamut. And you should be if you can afford and its best to invest into computer designed eyewear (glasses). These are not normal glasses, but designed to prevent glare on the eye which will strain them. Normally people who have prescription eye glasses have anti-glare anyway and will be fine, such can be said from me in which I do wear prescription eye glasses.
Not to say I use the computer for at max 14 hours a day in the most extreme cases. Has my sleep ever got messed up? No, it has not, I still wake up at the same time very day, or I should say night.
*Reason nocturnal, I hate this "family" of which I miserably live with and nighttime is when I do not have to see their faces or hear bickering and so forth.
This thread is just a pseudo effect. If you believe that it works, therefore it works because you believe it works.
Your 5% right, according to me.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2kUq0
the average script-follower/lack of common sense: http://www.techtales.com/tftechs.php?m=200504#8418
windoge 8 has the saddest excuse for a BSOD, it just tells you the type of error, no stop code, no nothing, just "something went wrong, all your unsaved work has now been lost to the void that is volatile memory"
"Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig." — Robert Heinlein
It surprises me how many people on this forum can't read benchmarks.
Computer glasses are designed to filter blue and anti glare. f.lux cannot block glare as it is physically impossible to. a phyiscal lens is needed to "scramble" the reflection.
In all, reduction in color gamut is useless to those who rely on absolute colors anyway. IE, Photographists, Artists, Movie Producers, Game developers, and the list goes on.
Honestly I just leave my monitor on its brightness (mines at 21% but it will vary for each monitor and each monitor has a different max brightness) and it's all good. Don't need to adjust it at all.
That's hardly true. Monitors are generally at their best when set to ~120cd/m^2 which is a fair whack lower than max brightness on most monitors.
When you set a monitors brightness lower on the panel itself than maximum. You do not actually dim the back LED/Lamps. What you are doing is causing pulse modulation of the LEDs or Lamps which rapidly flicker to make it appear "darker". This is also when people who have sensitive enough eyes can detect flicker and blame it on low FPS or a bad monitor.
As amusing of a concept it is, such is valid so. Or when doing digital art, to low of a brightness affects the saturation value of the colors you are using and the overall piece may not look the same to others, as it does not anyway. This is why I suggest using max Gamut and Bright values as a "universal" color level.
That's only on some monitors, my monitor for example, doesn't use PWM dimming and more and more monitors are starting to turn it aside.
Anyway, most monitors are professionally calibrated at around the 120-140cd/m^2 mark as I mentioned before because it's the most pleasing to the eyes and causes far less eyestrain than max brightness. Go on a well regarded monitor reviewing site such as prad.de or tftcentral.co.uk and you will see it's so.
Plus at max brightness the black levels on the monitor are going to be absolutely horrendous and people needing monitors for colour accurate work just calibrate their monitors using external calibration tools (colorimeters). They don't just pop the brightness to max as a 'universal' level. They match the colours on the screen as close to colours in real life as they can to insure their monitors are as accurate as possible.
I do not even this. When you have no PWM, which those lol wtf expensive pointless monitors have past 20% brightness, you do not have "flicker" from back-light. You have a more unstable issue with color or in worst case scenario color flickering or instability. Not to say almost all (if to say all) Non-PWM inducing monitors all have a coating, mostly a anti glare coating in one form or another. Some have a light layer, the others a heavy layer.
Software Calibrated means something you know. You calibrate to what your eyes like, not what everyone tells you to calibrate to. Set monitor to maximum settings excluding overdrive and so forth like those, software calibrate. I guess you forgot those little details eh?
I have no idea what those sites are about really. The one just looks as if dedicated to Dell. The other is not even in english and google translate is unreliable. So I have no idea why you are telling to go to such.
Black levels will still be black on LEDs. LED backlit panels literally turn off the LED in those pixel zones to create true black or shades of gray. Again one shouldn't calibrate by monitor OSD and instead software level calibrate. As well this is what professional calibration tools do, they for example in windows create a DCCW profile.
No idea why you're linking PWM with anti-glare coatings but pretty much every monitor excluding glossy monitors have an anti-glare coating. Not just ones that don't use PWM dimming. Also, if you're saying very expensive monitors all have PWM dimming, you're wrong again. It's beginning to be really phased out. My monitor cost $500+ and it doesn't have it. There are many monitors even more expensive that don't have it.
PWM dimming can cause the colours to change as the brightness does. Read about it here.
I'm talking about proper colour accuracy. Seeing things the way they would look IRL, not how you would like them to look.
Not even sure what you're talking about overdrive for. Overdrive helps to reduce motion blur and ghosting, nothing to do with colour adjustment.
These are probably the two most well regarded sites in the accuracy of their measurements and opinions in their reviews. They specialise in reviewing monitors and they are very good at it.
Check some of their reviews and see how they go about measuring things and calibrating their monitors.
Lol, no they don't. The only monitors that can do that and get true blacks are OLED monitors and they cost thousands of dollars. The backlight is ALWAYS on in LED and LCD monitors unless the monitor itself is off.
Software calibration is stupid. It relies on your eyes. You really think your eyes are going to be more accurate than devices that were constructed to get accurate colours? Some people like saturated colours so they oversaturate them in their settings. They may be happy with their settings but they're probably going to be very far off accurate. Remember, I'm talking about colour accuracy, not personal preference.
Read the section here from tft central for more information. (scroll down till you find the section about hardware and software calibrations if you want)