If you want to walk in front of the sticky piston door and have it open and close behind you, just set up pressure plates on each side of them. Instant automatic door you dont have to open and close.
Wouldn't that just delay the current to the door? I'll try it later though. . . Thank you.
No it wouldn't because of the Redstone connecting each of the repeater chains. Is connected to the door.
Basically you press the button current flows to the door powering it also sends current down each of the parallel repeater chains. Once the Redstone reaches the end of each repeater chain its sent to the door.
Everyone seems to enjoy over-complicating things. :>
I'm guessing this was done on PC. In current Xbox version this is really noisy. The door stays open, but makes the open and close sound for each repeater.
If you want to walk in front of the sticky piston door and have it open and close behind you, just set up pressure plates on each side of them. Instant automatic door you dont have to open and close.
Everyone seems to enjoy over-complicating things. :>
Its not a matter of 'over-complicating things, a latch is provided to prevent double pulsing the pistons, which yours does not provide, furthermore yours uses roughly the same amount of space as ours for a total of 2 seconds delay, where my design uses 11 repeaters for a total of 44 ticks, or 4.4 seconds delay. I guess it boils down to how much space he has, and what options he wants. The nice thing with going with a latch early in design is later one he can easly opt to keep the door open and close it with another push of the button by simply adding an and gate.
I suggest using a latch to prevent double pulse on xbox because sticky pistons are prone to loosing the stickyness when they receive a double pulse. This will likely change once we get the 1.2.3 or 2.5 update when notch slowed down pistons a bit, can't quite remember the full extent of the changes pistons went through during that update, but broke alot of things but in the end made them much more reliable.
use a pulse limiter just put more repeaters in to extend the pulse its way more compact then these guys are sayinguse a pulse limiter just put more repeaters in to extend the pulse its way more compact then these guys are saying
I had previously done the button open/button close type, that you mentioned. But I always forgot to close it behind me. Lol . I had thought of pressure plates on the other side, but they'd be too easy.
I also need to figure out where, or how, to hide my button. Bookcases would probably be the best, but again, too obvious.
I have some recessed lighting(via glowsone) just outside my safe room I put my button up there. Against smooth stone its almost invisible
use a pulse limiter just put more repeaters in to extend the pulse its way more compact then these guys are saying
use a pulse limiter just put more repeaters in to extend the pulse its way more compact then these guys are saying
This depends on your pulse limiter design. Most pulse limiters will only shorten a signal, not lengthen it. If your pulse limiter is actually able to lengthen the pulse then it is most likely some form of self resetting RS Nor Latch.
Here is the easy and quick design I usually use - it's not tilable or one wide or anything fancy, but it is really simple to see what it is doing:
I believe the main difference between this and a typical monostable circuit or pulse limiter is the redstone line that returns to the first torch. I'm pretty sure this system of two torches that affect each other is what makes it an RS Nor Latch. The line of repeaters down the middle is what makes it self resetting.
Just in case people don't understand what this is doing...Button press turns off first torch (the one you can barely see in toward bottom right) which allows second torch to light and send the signal. Once the second torch is on, the button will not have any effect which means you don't have to worry about quick pulses or stray signals from errant button presses. The second torch will stay on until the signal from the repeaters reaches it. That signal will shut off that torch which will then allow the first torch to come back on and the whole thing is ready for another button press.
If you took out the repeaters between the two torches you would have a regular RS Nor Latch and would need something to trigger the second torch to reset it.
id love if someone could post a picture of what a self resetting RS Nor latch looks like. i have no clue how to use redstone and i'd love to have a secret door in my basement room.
This will likely change once we get the 1.2.3 or 2.5 update when notch slowed down pistons a bit, can't quite remember the full extent of the changes pistons went through during that update, but broke alot of things but in the end made them much more reliable.
Pistons will extend in 1.5 ticks. But the retraction will still be completely instant. This only really effects systems based on the block-drop glitch in terms of completely broken machines. Others will only be a bit slower than they were previously.
P.S. Nice job, wolfeuk. I somehow missed that earlier.
My design above is also a self resetting latch. I really should take another snapshot during the day so its easier to see.
Not so NoseJob as if your circuit prior to that update is perfectly timed it will break after that update as the extending takes more time and thus breaks. I had to make adjustments to alot of my machines when that update came out.
Either way I'm looking so forward to this update, it means that pistons can be used in mob machines tied to pressure plates that won't get 'stuck' in the out position, and many other uses as well where they currently over time will break.
Thanks morsit. Didn't know that was there tbh. . . . Are they on the PC though? If so, wouldn't that affect any timings etc, on the xbox version? Useful in any case.
One thing I've noticed with my sticky pistons, is that IF they pop in and out too quick, they are loosing theire 'stickyness'. Meaning that the block they are pushing/pulling, gets left behind. This is ruining my cobblestone generator. . . Why is this happening? Bug, or would I need to delay the pulse with a sustainer to make the piston slower?
Thanks morsit. Didn't know that was there tbh. . . . Are they on the PC though? If so, wouldn't that affect any timings etc, on the xbox version? Useful in any case.
One thing I've noticed with my sticky pistons, is that IF they pop in and out too quick, they are loosing theire 'stickyness'. Meaning that the block they are pushing/pulling, gets left behind. This is ruining my cobblestone generator. . . Why is this happening? Bug, or would I need to delay the pulse with a sustainer to make the piston slower?
I don't know if its a bug but it sound like one, I've never notice that maybe later
Thanks morsit. Didn't know that was there tbh. . . . Are they on the PC though? If so, wouldn't that affect any timings etc, on the xbox version? Useful in any case.
One thing I've noticed with my sticky pistons, is that IF they pop in and out too quick, they are loosing theire 'stickyness'. Meaning that the block they are pushing/pulling, gets left behind. This is ruining my cobblestone generator. . . Why is this happening? Bug, or would I need to delay the pulse with a sustainer to make the piston slower?
I had this issue a while ago and thought it was a bug as you do. It wasn't until Nose_Job enlightened me to the fact that a sticky piston on a 1 tick pulse will drop its block, and pick it back up on the next pass. You are correct, putting a repeater right before the piston on the 2nd setting should fix it. I guess it can be a useful effect, its called a "block dropper".
I got my cobblestone generator working by slowing down the piston speed, using a sustainer . . .like the ones mentioned on the first page. It produces 1 cobblestone every second (real-life second) now. . . yeah, this may seem like it's quite slow . . .but hey, who needs fast cobblestone anyway. . . It also solved my un-sticky piston problem.
I've also set up a Restone Theory Zone at the side of my creative world (Add me if you want to see it. . . or add to it) . . . So far I have And gates, Or gates, Sustainers, and a few others. . . . Finally getting the hang of this redstone. . .. even helped a freind build a double door thingy.
Springy: How can this 'block dropper' be useful . . . it'd be the same as using a normal piston wouldn't it?
oh im dumb. i didn't even see page two of this thread. thanks.
Look at the rest of that page and you'll also see some compact designs from myself and wolfeuk. My ego dies a little when I say this, but wolfeuk's is a bit more compact for the delay it provides. If you don't mind the output being on the same side as the input, his is better. If you need them to be on opposing ends, use mine.
Grab a T Flip-Flop and hook its output to your door, then wire the inside and outside buttons to its input. That way the door will toggle each time one of the buttons is pressed.
If you want the door to close automatically behind you, just add a pressure plate after the button in your corridor, and wire it so it forces the T-FF in the "closed" state.
Read before posting please. Several of us already provided a solution that the OP was actually looking for to begin with. Not to mention, a handful of users already suggested the alternative you're proposing now.
Springy: How can this 'block dropper' be useful . . . it'd be the same as using a normal piston wouldn't it?
You couldn't be farther from the truth, my friend. For example, the block dropper itself is the only possible way to make a 1-wide T flip flop. Build a monostable circuit to output a 1-tick pulse to a sticky piston. Place a torch under where the block will be dropped, now you have an output you can lead wherever needed. Piston doors larger than 2 x 2 also wouldn't be possible without block-droppers, neither would anything that requires double extenders.
At the same time, they can be disastrous and completely break a machine. They are the reason why the ALU I built must be perfectly synchronized. The adders feature instant ripple carry, which requires the use of pistons. When the output of the first XOR is high, a piston is extended, allowing a carry signal to completely bypass that bit instantly, while also disabling the second XOR gate. Due to limited space, the input register has to write data sequentially. However, when data enters the ALU in this fashion, (and with my unorthodox setup) the higher bits are receiving data before the rest. Basically 5 packets of information are coming in at slightly different times, and the bits interact with each other through the carry line. This often causes rapid and unwanted pulses, that result in various pistons dropping blocks. Often it is the "carry piston" which acts as a false positive for one half of the figurative AND gate that tells a bit to generate a carry signal. This is bad, very bad, and you end up with an output of corrupted data that makes absolutely no sense. Since mine is a 16-bit machine, synchronization was interesting, to say the least. I ended up using 32 pistons on the input accumulator, opposite from the register itself, all set up to retract at the exact same moment. A single tick of difference can completely break something this fickle and delicate.
By the way, I would like to see the redstone zone you mentioned. Something tells me it doesn't actually teach redstone theory, and I could help with that.
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No it wouldn't because of the Redstone connecting each of the repeater chains. Is connected to the door.
Basically you press the button current flows to the door powering it also sends current down each of the parallel repeater chains. Once the Redstone reaches the end of each repeater chain its sent to the door.
I'm guessing this was done on PC. In current Xbox version this is really noisy. The door stays open, but makes the open and close sound for each repeater.
It needs to be hidden.
is quite cool. . . . however slightly complicated.
As for the 'obvious' button. . . . my GT is on the left. Come visit my house, and find my 'obvious' button.
Its not a matter of 'over-complicating things, a latch is provided to prevent double pulsing the pistons, which yours does not provide, furthermore yours uses roughly the same amount of space as ours for a total of 2 seconds delay, where my design uses 11 repeaters for a total of 44 ticks, or 4.4 seconds delay. I guess it boils down to how much space he has, and what options he wants. The nice thing with going with a latch early in design is later one he can easly opt to keep the door open and close it with another push of the button by simply adding an and gate.
I suggest using a latch to prevent double pulse on xbox because sticky pistons are prone to loosing the stickyness when they receive a double pulse. This will likely change once we get the 1.2.3 or 2.5 update when notch slowed down pistons a bit, can't quite remember the full extent of the changes pistons went through during that update, but broke alot of things but in the end made them much more reliable.
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I have some recessed lighting(via glowsone) just outside my safe room I put my button up there. Against smooth stone its almost invisible
This depends on your pulse limiter design. Most pulse limiters will only shorten a signal, not lengthen it. If your pulse limiter is actually able to lengthen the pulse then it is most likely some form of self resetting RS Nor Latch.
Here is the easy and quick design I usually use - it's not tilable or one wide or anything fancy, but it is really simple to see what it is doing:
I believe the main difference between this and a typical monostable circuit or pulse limiter is the redstone line that returns to the first torch. I'm pretty sure this system of two torches that affect each other is what makes it an RS Nor Latch. The line of repeaters down the middle is what makes it self resetting.
Just in case people don't understand what this is doing...Button press turns off first torch (the one you can barely see in toward bottom right) which allows second torch to light and send the signal. Once the second torch is on, the button will not have any effect which means you don't have to worry about quick pulses or stray signals from errant button presses. The second torch will stay on until the signal from the repeaters reaches it. That signal will shut off that torch which will then allow the first torch to come back on and the whole thing is ready for another button press.
If you took out the repeaters between the two torches you would have a regular RS Nor Latch and would need something to trigger the second torch to reset it.
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Retired StaffPistons will extend in 1.5 ticks. But the retraction will still be completely instant. This only really effects systems based on the block-drop glitch in terms of completely broken machines. Others will only be a bit slower than they were previously.
P.S. Nice job, wolfeuk. I somehow missed that earlier.
Not so NoseJob as if your circuit prior to that update is perfectly timed it will break after that update as the extending takes more time and thus breaks. I had to make adjustments to alot of my machines when that update came out.
Either way I'm looking so forward to this update, it means that pistons can be used in mob machines tied to pressure plates that won't get 'stuck' in the out position, and many other uses as well where they currently over time will break.
http://www.minecraftforum.net/topic/892820-ultimate-collection-of-redstone-circuit-designs/
Thanks morsit. Didn't know that was there tbh. . . . Are they on the PC though? If so, wouldn't that affect any timings etc, on the xbox version? Useful in any case.
One thing I've noticed with my sticky pistons, is that IF they pop in and out too quick, they are loosing theire 'stickyness'. Meaning that the block they are pushing/pulling, gets left behind. This is ruining my cobblestone generator. . . Why is this happening? Bug, or would I need to delay the pulse with a sustainer to make the piston slower?
I don't know if its a bug but it sound like one, I've never notice that maybe later
I had this issue a while ago and thought it was a bug as you do. It wasn't until Nose_Job enlightened me to the fact that a sticky piston on a 1 tick pulse will drop its block, and pick it back up on the next pass. You are correct, putting a repeater right before the piston on the 2nd setting should fix it. I guess it can be a useful effect, its called a "block dropper".
I've also set up a Restone Theory Zone at the side of my creative world (Add me if you want to see it. . . or add to it) . . . So far I have And gates, Or gates, Sustainers, and a few others. . . . Finally getting the hang of this redstone. . .. even helped a freind build a double door thingy.
Springy: How can this 'block dropper' be useful . . . it'd be the same as using a normal piston wouldn't it?
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Retired StaffLook at the rest of that page and you'll also see some compact designs from myself and wolfeuk. My ego dies a little when I say this, but wolfeuk's is a bit more compact for the delay it provides. If you don't mind the output being on the same side as the input, his is better. If you need them to be on opposing ends, use mine.
Read before posting please. Several of us already provided a solution that the OP was actually looking for to begin with. Not to mention, a handful of users already suggested the alternative you're proposing now.
You couldn't be farther from the truth, my friend. For example, the block dropper itself is the only possible way to make a 1-wide T flip flop. Build a monostable circuit to output a 1-tick pulse to a sticky piston. Place a torch under where the block will be dropped, now you have an output you can lead wherever needed. Piston doors larger than 2 x 2 also wouldn't be possible without block-droppers, neither would anything that requires double extenders.
At the same time, they can be disastrous and completely break a machine. They are the reason why the ALU I built must be perfectly synchronized. The adders feature instant ripple carry, which requires the use of pistons. When the output of the first XOR is high, a piston is extended, allowing a carry signal to completely bypass that bit instantly, while also disabling the second XOR gate. Due to limited space, the input register has to write data sequentially. However, when data enters the ALU in this fashion, (and with my unorthodox setup) the higher bits are receiving data before the rest. Basically 5 packets of information are coming in at slightly different times, and the bits interact with each other through the carry line. This often causes rapid and unwanted pulses, that result in various pistons dropping blocks. Often it is the "carry piston" which acts as a false positive for one half of the figurative AND gate that tells a bit to generate a carry signal. This is bad, very bad, and you end up with an output of corrupted data that makes absolutely no sense. Since mine is a 16-bit machine, synchronization was interesting, to say the least. I ended up using 32 pistons on the input accumulator, opposite from the register itself, all set up to retract at the exact same moment. A single tick of difference can completely break something this fickle and delicate.
By the way, I would like to see the redstone zone you mentioned. Something tells me it doesn't actually teach redstone theory, and I could help with that.