As some of you may or may not know, when us texture pack creators go about our mad science we generally use programs that support layers and other fun stuff. The .png files we distribute with our packs though have none of that information so it's up to others to wonder just how we created such wonders.
So I thought it might be fun, and instructional, to share some our master files.
Before I get to the fun file sharing though, I want to take a little time to talk about the file formats since each of the commonly used image editors has it's own native format.
Photoshop saves to .psd files. Since photoshop is the industry standard, both GIMP and Paint.net can read these. (Though you have to install a plugin for Paint.net)
GIMP uses .xcf files and as far as I know it's the only one that reads those. You can also save to .psd files in GIMP without installing any additional plugins. Fortunately GIMP Is free and runs on everything so it's easy enough to convert .xcf into .psd if you want to use another application instead. GIMP is available from gimp.org
Paint.net has .pdn files and again I think it's the only one that reads those. You can get a plugin for it though that allows it to use .psd files. Paint.net is also free, but unfortunately Paint.net is Windows specific so it can be a little bit of a bother converting .pdn files to .psd if you want to use something else and are not a windows person. Paint.net is available from getpaint.net
---------------
So now that I have that out of the way and you know what program to use to open what type of file, here are some of my own master files:
Some notes about how I do things...
One of the first things you real artists will note is that I don't have a layer for each tile. I long ago got into the habit of just using the selection tool to quarantine each tile as I work on it. This method of working has a few problems with it though. For one thing, I have to be careful as it is very easy to accidentally change the surrounding tiles. I've had to revert more than one time simply because I forgot to select first before editing. The other main problem is that several of the filters I like to use operate on entire layers regardless of the selection. As a result I've often found myself using a secondary working image that is exactly one tile in size as a sort of scratch pad.
I am trying to break myself of this habit but old habits die hard and GIMP doesn't support grouping layers into folders like Photoshop does so it's just one LONG list. (Especially if you break each tile up into a base, tint, detail and detail tint like I do) I feel I should note here that Paint.net doesn't support partial layers so that if you use that program you may not want to break the tiles up just to save memory. (GIMP and Photoshop both let you have layers that are smaller than the size of the image.) Unfortunately for me I use GIMP so I have no such excuse. >_>
Another thing I often do is isolate the color from the pattern. I will draw the base texture in grayscale and then use a layer set to multiply to apply the coloration over it. This lets me turn off the colors to see if my textures work together just in terms of their base patterns. (This is a large part of how I got my Seamless Splendor pack to work.)
---------------
So yea... Feel free to discuss my stuff (and how I could do it better) or share your own master files and let us talk about your work.
TLDR: If you weren't interested enough in this to read it, then this probably isn't the thread for you. :/
(Either that or I'm being overly wordy again, which is always a possibility.) <_<
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Tis far better to be a witty fool than a foolish wit.
Interesting, but I doubt someone wants to open my 80mb pdf with over 300 layers. =/
80mb? O.o What ARE you doing? Oh, I see, that's your 256x one isn't it?
Not sure I could load that one on this computer, though my one at home could manage it.
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Tis far better to be a witty fool than a foolish wit.
Interesting, but I doubt someone wants to open my 80mb pdf with over 300 layers. =/
80mb? O.o What ARE you doing? Oh, I see, that's your 256x one isn't it?
Not sure I could load that one on this computer, though my one at home could manage it.
Yea it's starting to slow my poor laptop down. I might have to merge a few layers eventually. I have like 5-10 layers for every texture each of them adding in specific elements such as burning, highlighting, shadows, more seamless, usually some type of filter, and then a layer specific properties such as an inner glow or overlay.
I'd have to say that the HD packs are getting a bad rep by the copy-paste packs, which I why I'm trying so hard to give it a better name. If only mipmapping would be available in MC my pack wouldn't look so grainy from a distance. =\
I'd have to say that the HD packs are getting a bad rep by the copy-paste packs, which I why I'm trying so hard to give it a better name. If only mipmapping would be available in MC my pack wouldn't look so grainy from a distance. =\
Mipmapping would be great as even at 16x you can get some pretty bad moire effects. (The default texture suffers from this quite a bit.) I think the lack of mipmapping is a sizable part of why the 'simple' packs are so popular.
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Tis far better to be a witty fool than a foolish wit.
Mipmapping would be great as even at 16x you can get some pretty bad moire effects. (The default texture suffers from this quite a bit.) I think the lack of mipmapping is a sizable part of why the 'simple' packs are so popular.
I would agree with that entirely. The simple packs, though annoying because there are so many, are very easy on the eyes. With proper coloring, a simple pack looks extremely clean and results in absolutely no moire.
The vanilla cobblestone had a terrible habit of causing such effects... I remember when we were building massive structures.
Is it ok if I ask some questions of you more experienced artists here?
-For example, what is "moire"?
-Is it a sign of a bad artist if I don't use layers? At most I just use a selection layer to isolate a single tile, kind of like The Fool was talking about.
-Also, what are Bumpmapping, Bitmapping and Mipmapping and all those? They sound like interesting effects, but nothing I know anything about, unfortunately.
My apologies of these have been answered before, but the search function isn't working. :\
Just wanted to drop a quick reply to thank (past and future) all artists who contribute to this thread. Hopefully, this sort of information will help people who want to make more than mix-n-match packs but just can't seem to pixel something that they're happy with.
In short, kudos to you, art-making folks!
Is it ok if I ask some questions of you more experienced artists here?
-For example, what is "moire"?
-Is it a sign of a bad artist if I don't use layers? At most I just use a selection layer to isolate a single tile, kind of like The Fool was talking about.
-Also, what are Bumpmapping, Bitmapping and Mipmapping and all those? They sound like interesting effects, but nothing I know anything about, unfortunately.
My apologies of these have been answered before, but the search function isn't working. :\
I suggest doing a google search on those topics as that's probably going to give you a better explanation than I could, but I'll give it a shot.
Danger! Incoming wall of text! (consider yourself warned)
Moire is an interference pattern caused by overlapping grids. In this case, the grid of pixels on your screen and the grid of pixels in the texture. In game the impact of this can range from a 'grainy' appearance on far blocks, to clearly defined wave patterns. The effect is far more visible when you are moving as the waves will sweep across the texture.
Mipmapping is the practice of using a smaller resolution texture on distant polygons to both help minimize the moire effect and to speed up the rendering. To give an example, lets say you have a texture that is 16 pixels wide being drawn on a block that is being rendered as only 8 pixels wide due to it's distance from you. Without mipmapping the engine has to decide what color to paint each screen pixel based on up to 9 pixels in the texture and how much of each of those pixels in the texture is showing through the small window that is the screen pixel. Depending on how much variation in the base texture there is, this can lead to rapid shifts in coloration or the banding of a moire pattern. With mipmapping, the engine switches over to using a texture that's only 8 pixels wide, resulting in a much more even mapping.
Bump mapping is a way of telling the lighting engine to treat a surface as if it wasn't perfectly flat. In it's basic form it is a separate image that is a black and white representation of the height of each point in a texture, with white being the highest points and black being the lowest. Visually, this results in surfaces that look rough even though they are painted on flat polygons. More advanced applications of this will break it down even further into a heightmap, normalmap, and specularmap. (Possibly also a reflection map) They also use such tricks as parallaxing to make it look as if the flat surface is occluding itself, but honestly, if you want to get into that much detail, go and find a good book on 3D rendering. (or take a class on it if you are able.)
As for not using layers, that's more a sign of being inexperienced with computer art than it is a sign of being a bad artist. One of the things layers lets you do is easily and quickly change specific aspects of an image. Ores are a good example of this. I like to put the ores on my 'details' layer and the base stone goes on the 'background' layer below this. This way if I decide I don't like my stone texture, I can quickly change it for all of my ores without having to completely re-draw them. (I make extensive use of partial transparency on the detail layer to ensure that my ores will evenly blend with whatever stone texture I put behind them.)
Trust me, the more you work with computer graphics, the more layers you are going to find yourself using. My first texture pack had all of three layers in the image. (I primarily just did coloring of line drawings before this and for that I didn't really need more layers.) My latest one has up to seven layers per tile.
Basically, I went from this:
[*:1i7kdaxc]background - contained the default texture that I then replaced with the base pattern for my own textures
[*:1i7kdaxc]tint - contained the colors for each tile
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail - contained things like highlights and ores
To this:
[*:1i7kdaxc]background - only contains the default texture. The only editing I do of this layer is to add a mask to obscure the tiles that are transparent so that the default won't show through. (Glass, flowers, etc)
[*:1i7kdaxc]base - this is the foundation of my own texture and is done in grayscale.
[*:1i7kdaxc]base tint - the main colors for each tile
[*:1i7kdaxc]base highlights - lighting effects that give depth to the texture
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail - mostly ores and the sides of the grass covered and snow covered dirt blocks but sometimes other details go in here as well. (Such as small pebbles in the dirt perhaps)
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail tint - like the base tint, but for the details. I mainly only use this for the side dirt blocks.
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail highlights - lighting effects for the detail layer.
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Tis far better to be a witty fool than a foolish wit.
Ah, thank you kindly, Fool. :smile.gif: That was an excellent explanation. I apologize for not thinking of running a google search earlier. I've been rather out of it, recently..
I'll try to start using more layers then. My art would likely be improved if I were. I just can't wrap my heard around greyscale.. Bluh.
But alright, thank you! :smile.gif: I'll be sure to submit my own source file when I feel my pack is ready to be viewed. Not that it'll really compare to anything you guys have made. Heh.
Interesting that you guys like to do all your editing in one massive master file! I personally find that annoying. XD
My master file only contains the final version of each tile.
Instead, I like to make lots of little psd files, one for each tile (variations of the same tile I put in layer groups within this file). This allows me to do a bunch of neat stuff.
One photoshop function I use a lot when making tiling textures is the "offset" filter. It basically shifts and wraps around the texture, putting the edges of the tile in the middle, forming a sort of cross shape. After that, you paint over the cross shape, and then your texture will be seamless.
Another thing I like to do is to put the textures on a plane in a 3d program, tiled a couple of times. This allows me to check annoying repetitive patterns without having to export to the game.
So yeah, for both of these techniques you'll want to separate out your textures to their own files. The only disadvantage is that you'll be left with a zillion little files! XD
just a small note... you can learn how to do all the mapping from google...or trial and error..(or both in my case! lol)
it just takes a lot of searching and patience.
and @Scuttles: I so feel you on the mipmapping...thankfully we have a glsl pack available that does it now.. still cant fix it within like 50ish blocks of you tho.. /sadface my pack is doing the grainy thing now
One photoshop function I use a lot when making tiling textures is the "offset" filter. It basically shifts and wraps around the texture, putting the edges of the tile in the middle, forming a sort of cross shape. After that, you paint over the cross shape, and then your texture will be seamless.
Doesn't offest just work on one layer in Photoshop? (I know it does in GIMP) This is actually the main reason I've taken to breaking up each tile into it's own layer. (With the layer dimensions set to those of the tile.)
Quote from Wayuki »
Another thing I like to do is to put the textures on a plane in a 3d program, tiled a couple of times. This allows me to check annoying repetitive patterns without having to export to the game.
I keep a 'filltest' layer in my file for this myself and just use the bucket set to pattern fill from the clipboard and then copy all the visible pixels from a tile. (ctrl+shift+c in GIMP) That particular command effectively flattens the layers and copies the result to the clipboard. (Basically you get what you see) Mind you I rather like the idea of having a 3D preview without having to fire up the game and go through all the steps of putting it in a zip and loading it up.
Actually... I like that idea so much I may just dust off my OpenGL book (Or better yet, look into WebGL like I've been meaning to) and whip up something quick and dirty to do just that without having to break the image into different files. Just do what MC itself does and load the terrain.png into texture memory and use texture offsets to pick the tile. (And then just use a bunch of polygons to do tiling instead of one big one.)
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
Tis far better to be a witty fool than a foolish wit.
Doesn't offest just work on one layer in Photoshop? (I know it does in GIMP) This is actually the main reason I've taken to breaking up each tile into it's own layer. (With the layer dimensions set to those of the tile.)
It does indeed. For me it's not a problem, because I'm making my textures using pixel art techniques, so I mostly work on one layer anyway. I do like to make regular copies of that one layer, so that I keep a backlog of older versions. That way I can easily go back if I don't like the direction it's taking.
If you do want to work on several layers for the texture, you have to apply the filter to every layer separately. That works too, it's just a little more involved.
Quote from The_Fool76 »
Actually... I like that idea so much I may just dust off my OpenGL book (Or better yet, look into WebGL like I've been meaning to) and whip up something quick and dirty to do just that without having to break the image into different files. Just do what MC itself does and load the terrain.png into texture memory and use texture offsets to pick the tile. (And then just use a bunch of polygons to do tiling instead of one big one.)
You can even go one step further and make little scenes. That way you can also check how the designs work together without loading up the game. Also, it's invaluable for working on more complex textures, such as mobs and vehicles. Everything is build up from different sized boxes, so it's really easy to whip up these models if you have a little 3d experience.
Gimp has a filter to automate the process of making the texture seamless. I used it on my mossy stone after placing the moss where I wanted it...works wonders. my moss even wraps around corners perfectly.
Edit: also I'll probably be releasing my animated water source file with a short tut. I know there is one for basic flowing water but not one for fully animated still/flowing water.
Gimp has a filter to automate the process of making the texture seamless. I used it on my mossy stone after placing the moss where I wanted it...works wonders. my moss even wraps around corners perfectly.
Such a feature might work for photo-sourced textures, though as an artist I would want that level of control myself. For handdrawn textures, especially if it's pixel art, I imagine the results will be less than satisfactory. ;P
Such a feature might work for photo-sourced textures, though as an artist I would want that level of control myself. For handdrawn textures, especially if it's pixel art, I imagine the results will be less than satisfactory. ;P
It is. I do it by hand myself. That and the 'make seamless' filter doesn't make it 100% seamless when mapped to an in game block. For that you have to make sure the sides of your texture will also blend with the top and bottoms. (Look at the top of a stone block in the game, you will notice that two edges have seams on almost all the textures out there.)
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Tis far better to be a witty fool than a foolish wit.
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Curse PremiumSo I thought it might be fun, and instructional, to share some our master files.
Before I get to the fun file sharing though, I want to take a little time to talk about the file formats since each of the commonly used image editors has it's own native format.
Photoshop saves to .psd files. Since photoshop is the industry standard, both GIMP and Paint.net can read these. (Though you have to install a plugin for Paint.net)
GIMP uses .xcf files and as far as I know it's the only one that reads those. You can also save to .psd files in GIMP without installing any additional plugins. Fortunately GIMP Is free and runs on everything so it's easy enough to convert .xcf into .psd if you want to use another application instead. GIMP is available from gimp.org
Paint.net has .pdn files and again I think it's the only one that reads those. You can get a plugin for it though that allows it to use .psd files. Paint.net is also free, but unfortunately Paint.net is Windows specific so it can be a little bit of a bother converting .pdn files to .psd if you want to use something else and are not a windows person. Paint.net is available from getpaint.net
---------------
So now that I have that out of the way and you know what program to use to open what type of file, here are some of my own master files:
Mooncraft: terrain_base.xcf
Haunted: terrain_base.xcf
Some notes about how I do things...
One of the first things you real artists will note is that I don't have a layer for each tile. I long ago got into the habit of just using the selection tool to quarantine each tile as I work on it. This method of working has a few problems with it though. For one thing, I have to be careful as it is very easy to accidentally change the surrounding tiles. I've had to revert more than one time simply because I forgot to select first before editing. The other main problem is that several of the filters I like to use operate on entire layers regardless of the selection. As a result I've often found myself using a secondary working image that is exactly one tile in size as a sort of scratch pad.
I am trying to break myself of this habit but old habits die hard and GIMP doesn't support grouping layers into folders like Photoshop does so it's just one LONG list. (Especially if you break each tile up into a base, tint, detail and detail tint like I do) I feel I should note here that Paint.net doesn't support partial layers so that if you use that program you may not want to break the tiles up just to save memory. (GIMP and Photoshop both let you have layers that are smaller than the size of the image.) Unfortunately for me I use GIMP so I have no such excuse. >_>
Another thing I often do is isolate the color from the pattern. I will draw the base texture in grayscale and then use a layer set to multiply to apply the coloration over it. This lets me turn off the colors to see if my textures work together just in terms of their base patterns. (This is a large part of how I got my Seamless Splendor pack to work.)
---------------
So yea... Feel free to discuss my stuff (and how I could do it better) or share your own master files and let us talk about your work.
TLDR: If you weren't interested enough in this to read it, then this probably isn't the thread for you. :/
(Either that or I'm being overly wordy again, which is always a possibility.) <_<
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Curse Premium80mb? O.o What ARE you doing? Oh, I see, that's your 256x one isn't it?
Not sure I could load that one on this computer, though my one at home could manage it.
Yea it's starting to slow my poor laptop down. I might have to merge a few layers eventually. I have like 5-10 layers for every texture each of them adding in specific elements such as burning, highlighting, shadows, more seamless, usually some type of filter, and then a layer specific properties such as an inner glow or overlay.
I'd have to say that the HD packs are getting a bad rep by the copy-paste packs, which I why I'm trying so hard to give it a better name. If only mipmapping would be available in MC my pack wouldn't look so grainy from a distance. =\
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Curse PremiumMipmapping would be great as even at 16x you can get some pretty bad moire effects. (The default texture suffers from this quite a bit.) I think the lack of mipmapping is a sizable part of why the 'simple' packs are so popular.
I would agree with that entirely. The simple packs, though annoying because there are so many, are very easy on the eyes. With proper coloring, a simple pack looks extremely clean and results in absolutely no moire.
The vanilla cobblestone had a terrible habit of causing such effects... I remember when we were building massive structures.
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Curse Premium-For example, what is "moire"?
-Is it a sign of a bad artist if I don't use layers? At most I just use a selection layer to isolate a single tile, kind of like The Fool was talking about.
-Also, what are Bumpmapping, Bitmapping and Mipmapping and all those? They sound like interesting effects, but nothing I know anything about, unfortunately.
My apologies of these have been answered before, but the search function isn't working. :\
In short, kudos to you, art-making folks!
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Curse PremiumI suggest doing a google search on those topics as that's probably going to give you a better explanation than I could, but I'll give it a shot.
Danger! Incoming wall of text! (consider yourself warned)
Moire is an interference pattern caused by overlapping grids. In this case, the grid of pixels on your screen and the grid of pixels in the texture. In game the impact of this can range from a 'grainy' appearance on far blocks, to clearly defined wave patterns. The effect is far more visible when you are moving as the waves will sweep across the texture.
Mipmapping is the practice of using a smaller resolution texture on distant polygons to both help minimize the moire effect and to speed up the rendering. To give an example, lets say you have a texture that is 16 pixels wide being drawn on a block that is being rendered as only 8 pixels wide due to it's distance from you. Without mipmapping the engine has to decide what color to paint each screen pixel based on up to 9 pixels in the texture and how much of each of those pixels in the texture is showing through the small window that is the screen pixel. Depending on how much variation in the base texture there is, this can lead to rapid shifts in coloration or the banding of a moire pattern. With mipmapping, the engine switches over to using a texture that's only 8 pixels wide, resulting in a much more even mapping.
Bump mapping is a way of telling the lighting engine to treat a surface as if it wasn't perfectly flat. In it's basic form it is a separate image that is a black and white representation of the height of each point in a texture, with white being the highest points and black being the lowest. Visually, this results in surfaces that look rough even though they are painted on flat polygons. More advanced applications of this will break it down even further into a heightmap, normalmap, and specularmap. (Possibly also a reflection map) They also use such tricks as parallaxing to make it look as if the flat surface is occluding itself, but honestly, if you want to get into that much detail, go and find a good book on 3D rendering. (or take a class on it if you are able.)
As for not using layers, that's more a sign of being inexperienced with computer art than it is a sign of being a bad artist. One of the things layers lets you do is easily and quickly change specific aspects of an image. Ores are a good example of this. I like to put the ores on my 'details' layer and the base stone goes on the 'background' layer below this. This way if I decide I don't like my stone texture, I can quickly change it for all of my ores without having to completely re-draw them. (I make extensive use of partial transparency on the detail layer to ensure that my ores will evenly blend with whatever stone texture I put behind them.)
Trust me, the more you work with computer graphics, the more layers you are going to find yourself using. My first texture pack had all of three layers in the image. (I primarily just did coloring of line drawings before this and for that I didn't really need more layers.) My latest one has up to seven layers per tile.
Basically, I went from this:
[*:1i7kdaxc]background - contained the default texture that I then replaced with the base pattern for my own textures
[*:1i7kdaxc]tint - contained the colors for each tile
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail - contained things like highlights and ores
To this:
[*:1i7kdaxc]background - only contains the default texture. The only editing I do of this layer is to add a mask to obscure the tiles that are transparent so that the default won't show through. (Glass, flowers, etc)
[*:1i7kdaxc]base - this is the foundation of my own texture and is done in grayscale.
[*:1i7kdaxc]base tint - the main colors for each tile
[*:1i7kdaxc]base highlights - lighting effects that give depth to the texture
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail - mostly ores and the sides of the grass covered and snow covered dirt blocks but sometimes other details go in here as well. (Such as small pebbles in the dirt perhaps)
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail tint - like the base tint, but for the details. I mainly only use this for the side dirt blocks.
[*:1i7kdaxc]detail highlights - lighting effects for the detail layer.
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Curse PremiumI'll try to start using more layers then. My art would likely be improved if I were. I just can't wrap my heard around greyscale.. Bluh.
But alright, thank you! :smile.gif: I'll be sure to submit my own source file when I feel my pack is ready to be viewed. Not that it'll really compare to anything you guys have made. Heh.
My master file only contains the final version of each tile.
Instead, I like to make lots of little psd files, one for each tile (variations of the same tile I put in layer groups within this file). This allows me to do a bunch of neat stuff.
One photoshop function I use a lot when making tiling textures is the "offset" filter. It basically shifts and wraps around the texture, putting the edges of the tile in the middle, forming a sort of cross shape. After that, you paint over the cross shape, and then your texture will be seamless.
Another thing I like to do is to put the textures on a plane in a 3d program, tiled a couple of times. This allows me to check annoying repetitive patterns without having to export to the game.
So yeah, for both of these techniques you'll want to separate out your textures to their own files. The only disadvantage is that you'll be left with a zillion little files! XD
Cube Craft, a simple pack by me!
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Curse Premiumit just takes a lot of searching and patience.
and @Scuttles: I so feel you on the mipmapping...thankfully we have a glsl pack available that does it now.. still cant fix it within like 50ish blocks of you tho.. /sadface my pack is doing the grainy thing now
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Curse PremiumDoesn't offest just work on one layer in Photoshop? (I know it does in GIMP) This is actually the main reason I've taken to breaking up each tile into it's own layer. (With the layer dimensions set to those of the tile.)
I keep a 'filltest' layer in my file for this myself and just use the bucket set to pattern fill from the clipboard and then copy all the visible pixels from a tile. (ctrl+shift+c in GIMP) That particular command effectively flattens the layers and copies the result to the clipboard. (Basically you get what you see) Mind you I rather like the idea of having a 3D preview without having to fire up the game and go through all the steps of putting it in a zip and loading it up.
Actually... I like that idea so much I may just dust off my OpenGL book (Or better yet, look into WebGL like I've been meaning to) and whip up something quick and dirty to do just that without having to break the image into different files. Just do what MC itself does and load the terrain.png into texture memory and use texture offsets to pick the tile. (And then just use a bunch of polygons to do tiling instead of one big one.)
It does indeed. For me it's not a problem, because I'm making my textures using pixel art techniques, so I mostly work on one layer anyway. I do like to make regular copies of that one layer, so that I keep a backlog of older versions. That way I can easily go back if I don't like the direction it's taking.
If you do want to work on several layers for the texture, you have to apply the filter to every layer separately. That works too, it's just a little more involved.
You can even go one step further and make little scenes. That way you can also check how the designs work together without loading up the game. Also, it's invaluable for working on more complex textures, such as mobs and vehicles. Everything is build up from different sized boxes, so it's really easy to whip up these models if you have a little 3d experience.
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Curse PremiumEdit: also I'll probably be releasing my animated water source file with a short tut. I know there is one for basic flowing water but not one for fully animated still/flowing water.
Such a feature might work for photo-sourced textures, though as an artist I would want that level of control myself. For handdrawn textures, especially if it's pixel art, I imagine the results will be less than satisfactory. ;P
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Curse PremiumIt is. I do it by hand myself. That and the 'make seamless' filter doesn't make it 100% seamless when mapped to an in game block. For that you have to make sure the sides of your texture will also blend with the top and bottoms. (Look at the top of a stone block in the game, you will notice that two edges have seams on almost all the textures out there.)