Anyone know how to make a reliable steam setup i can get high oven to make steam but steam wont come out if there is water in the oven and steam just builds up if i drain the water the steam pipes fine to a tank and from there to engines is good but i want to make steam continuously any ideas?
-Gyro: Code Contributions, being generally awesome
Awwwwwwwh, thanks. <:3c
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
The inquisitors were torturing Harry.
First, Ignatius used the rock.
Then Billy asked Harry if he wanted to read his BDSM blog. Harry was so surprised that his pants flew right off. He was wearing women's underpants. The inquisitors were wearing them, too.
Hello, dear Toopsy-Toops. I have been playing around in a flatlands world with lots of things, especially the Deep Tanks. Here are some things I found:
The above is apparently possible. Very nice. You can basically remove any block you want except for the controller. Fun. Probably not intentional?
Here is something sad I found out... Apparently the bottom design does not work. Is it too small? I thought that ''3x3x3'' meant the outside, not the inside volume. Am I wrong? Probably.
Anyway, I live here now.
~ Dylan
The same thing can be done with a Smeltery, which I understand the Deep Tank is based on. :>
I lol'd.
<3
Strange about that 5x5x3 (or internally 3x3x1) structure. I'll poke around with it. While I haven't tested that exact configuration, I know 3x3x3 (or 1x1x1) rendered just fine. How odd.
The same thing can be done with a Smeltery, which I understand the Deep Tank is based on. :>
Basically yes. I could do a quickfix for that behavior, but then there's the potential to lose fluids every time the the structure changes, which isn't very desirable if all you want to do is add a drain or expand the tank. ...Though, come to think of it, I could just disable the fluid rendering when the tank is incomplete. As it stands, if one was to replicate what Dylan did, then save and reload, the fluids would disappear since the layers would be reloaded and read from NBT.
Anyone know how to make a reliable steam setup -snip-
If using Thermal Expansions liquiducts, you can blacklist water from the pipe by adding a pneumatic servo to the connected liquiduct, then place the a water bucket in one of the slots (it isn't used). That said, I do plan on coming up with *something* so that's not needed. And by something, I mean steam rises... but of course I'll need to get TSteelworks pipes going, which may be a while off yet.
Here's an idea to make the dealloying mechanics yet more useful: Liquid dyes, that then dealloy into their component dyes if they are a mixture (i.e. orange becomes yellow and red).
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
The inquisitors were torturing Harry.
First, Ignatius used the rock.
Then Billy asked Harry if he wanted to read his BDSM blog. Harry was so surprised that his pants flew right off. He was wearing women's underpants. The inquisitors were wearing them, too.
If using Thermal Expansions liquiducts, you can blacklist water from the pipe by adding a pneumatic servo to the connected liquiduct, then place the a water bucket in one of the slots (it isn't used). That said, I do plan on coming up with *something* so that's not needed. And by something, I mean steam rises... but of course I'll need to get TSteelworks pipes going, which may be a while off yet.
yeah tried that but no joy as there is always water in the oven it wont take the steam i did this already i can even change the liquid order in the oven btw
Yay, now when the version with the steam turbine is released, I can just send all my ores to the same smeltery, and de-alloy it all in the deep tank!
you already can do this as metals melt at different rates add a fluid duct from smeltery to deep tank always on and it sucks al metals to deep tank and use tank to do your casting. if you need an alloy just flick the switch on the duct and met what you need then cast at smeltery or re flick the lever and the alloy goes to the tank for later use
Ladies and gentlemen, let the dealloying process begin!
If using Thermal Expansions liquiducts, you can blacklist water from the pipe by adding a pneumatic servo to the connected liquiduct, then place the a water bucket in one of the slots (it isn't used). That said, I do plan on coming up with *something* so that's not needed. And by something, I mean steam rises... but of course I'll need to get TSteelworks pipes going, which may be a while off yet.
In regards to your previous rhymey-wimey-timey-limey post:
...well, I have to say, that was complex. Now that you're done, looks like I'm next.
@The de-alloying process: Hooray! Now I feel like throwing a parade! (Don't tell me that that isn't a legitimate rhyme. This is my post, my money, my time.)
What exactly is that block on top? It looks like Thermal Expansion, but I better stop
before I make assumptions, cause that takes some gumption (real word, you might've heard).
@The steam: Not to be mean,
but would it be too much of a load to add some code
to make pipes only take
steam from the top once it's risen up?
Honesty, don't get testy, I'm only posting (not boasting) for the sake of rhyming (bad timing?)
...realized that most of that was pretty much gibberish. Basically:
Yay! De-alloying!
Could you make it so you actually have to put the drain/pump/vent (if and when new gas-oriented versions of the normal Smeltery bits are added) at the top of the Oven, instead of at the base where people seem to normally put their drains, in order to extract the steam?
Good news, everyone!
This post contains absolutely no rhymes!
Mod updated. Links and info in OP.
Meanwhile...
Once more, just to even the score:
Dat yo cat, doin' dat? Dat cat be bein' whack, he on xxxxxx fire, he never tire of doin' awesome stuff, cause he tough enough to shake with his master, stealin' the dawg's aster (note: don't add a dis, referencing Young Justice.)
I have to ask, what is the benefit of using the Deep Tank as compared to basically any other storage system, except for maybe relative cheapness of materials? 8 buckets per internal block space makes it strictly worse than Railcraft tanks, Extra Utilities drums, and even Thermal Expansion portable tanks, particularly with how fairly easy those all are to make.
I have to ask, what is the benefit of using the Deep Tank as compared to basically any other storage system, except for maybe relative cheapness of materials? 8 buckets per internal block space makes it strictly worse than Railcraft tanks, Extra Utilities drums, and even Thermal Expansion portable tanks, particularly with how fairly easy those all are to make.
The fact it can store multiple fluids and the potential to dispense them as-needed? o:
I must be using the ducts wrong or something, anything I put in them won't go into the respective slots they are set to. Where do you put the ducts exactly? Do you replace scorched bricks in the High Oven with them?
Here's an idea to make the dealloying mechanics yet more useful: Liquid dyes, that then dealloy into their component dyes if they are a mixture (i.e. orange becomes yellow and red).
Snazzy idea. I can dig it. On the todo list. This also coincides with another decision I've made recently: you will be able to dye liquid cement. When it hardens, the cement blocks will be the color you desire. Then, you can use a chisel to jazz it up.
-snip-mad rhymes-snip-
Could you make it so you actually have to put the drain/pump/vent (if and when new gas-oriented versions of the normal Smeltery bits are added) at the top of the Oven, instead of at the base where people seem to normally put their drains, in order to extract the steam?
Dat yo cat, doin' dat? Dat cat be bein' whack, he on xxxxxx fire, he never tire of doin' awesome stuff, cause he tough enough to shake with his master, stealin' the dawg's aster -snip-
No, but I have a cat who does that exact same very thing. It's adorable, and brolicious.
Is aster an antonym for disaster?
I have to ask, what is the benefit of using the Deep Tank as compared to basically any other storage system, except for maybe relative cheapness of materials? 8 buckets per internal block space makes it strictly worse than Railcraft tanks, Extra Utilities drums, and even Thermal Expansion portable tanks, particularly with how fairly easy those all are to make.
The fact it can store multiple fluids and the potential to dispense them as-needed? o:
This. Also, the mod is balanced strictly against TConstruct and its logic, which explains its default liquid capacity. But note, that's default. There's a config setting for just this very gripe. As per skyboy's recommendation, if using Steelwroks alongside mods like Railcraft or in larger modpacks in general, using a value of 24 buckets per block is an optimal setting.You may disregard the warning in the config: it's been disproven. I'll update that text soon for the next release.
I must be using the ducts wrong or something, anything I put in them won't go into the respective slots they are set to. Where do you put the ducts exactly? Do you replace scorched bricks in the High Oven with them?
Yess'ir, ducts are placed in the High Oven structure just like drains.
There seems to be a bit of wonkiness going on with using a Seared Duct to feed Ex Nihilo's special "Ore Dust" blocks into the High Oven. If I just throw a stack of the stuff in the Controller, it works fine. More than fine: Getting tripple ore is almost orgasmic. Next time I start a world, screw pulverizers, amirite?
However, if I start with a completely empty controller (except for fuel and a 3000 degree temperature, wooh!), and I place a single Ore Dust in the Seared Duct, set the output to the "ingot" icon (I assume this is the right setting, you need a bit more documentation in your book to explain the icons and all the slots, man!) and give it redstone from a lever, it doesn't work. That is to say, the dust doesn't get deposited in the controller, even though visually it seems to disappear from the duct's interface. But if I exit the interface and go back in it, I can see the dust for a fraction of a second before it disappears again. Troubleshooting, I noticed that if I switch the icon at the bottom, then the dust (or any amount of dust I throw in that disappears initially) just... pops back into the slots, like it never left.
Things can get even wonkier though. If I already have, say, a full stack of dust in the controller getting melted, and I place some more dusts in the duct (redstone on, ingot icon), then I get the following:
While looking at the duct GUI, the number of dusts in the first slot goes down, fast. Way too fast, much faster than it should. But, if I exit the GUI and re-open it, magically I still have 64 dusts in the first slot and all other stacks are untouched.
If I look at the Controller GUI it's even weirder: Say I have a full stack, and I put a stack in the Duct GUI, the numbers in the stack go very wonky: When the first ingot is burned, the stack size goes down to 63 and back up to 64... alright... second burn, it goes down to 62, then goes to 63 and 64. Third burn, goes to 61, 62, 63, 64.... you get the picture I guess. Through all this I'm still just getting my 3 ingots of molten metal in the tank, that just works.
Extra weird: at one point it seems to go back to "normal": around 51 or 52 left in the stack, it stops building back up to 64, it just removes one per burn and we're good... until I look at the Duct GUI, where the stack size goes down (not really, again exit and go back in the Duct GUI and I still have my full stack). And then I go back to the controller and for another 10 burns or so, it builds back to 64 on each burn.
Basically, the duct just... doesn't work. It *seems* to work, in the sense that it wants to add blocks to my stack in the controller and remove them from the duct, but it just kinda fakes it (like a bored wife would, y'know?). (Edit: I put the duct in the middle, on one of the sides like I did the controller and drain. Pumping items into the duct works from a hopper.)
BTW, using 0.0.3.1 in the Agrarian Skies mod pack/skyblock map.
This. Also, the mod is balanced strictly against TConstruct and its logic, which explains its default liquid capacity. But note, that's default. There's a config setting for just this very gripe. As per skyboy's recommendation, if using Steelwroks alongside mods like Railcraft or in larger modpacks in general, using a value of 24 buckets per block is an optimal setting.You may disregard the warning in the config: it's been disproven. I'll update that text soon for the next release.
Being able to store than one liquid type is definitely a good reason to use these tanks. Being able to up the liquid capacity without worrying about things breaking is also good - and I've definitely changed it to the 24 now and will be making use of the Deep Tanks. (I'm using this mod via the Agrarian Skies modpack, if you're curious - I mostly wanted a goot solution to storing the massive amounts of mob essence I'm generating at this point, as drums are kinda boring and not multiblocks.)
The Meaning of Life, the Universe, and Everything.
Join Date:
1/28/2012
Posts:
359
Minecraft:
Kimiro
Member Details
Further research! This time into the murky and ill-understood world of... Quenching!
Now if memory serves (read: I'm to lazy to check), I've brought up the concept of quenching with regards to hardening steel as well as general forging. But did you know there's more to it than simply dunking the red-hot metal into cold water?
For starters, water is only usually used for forged objects which need no special properties, as well as cast objects. But it's become much, much more common to quench hot steel in things other than fresh water. Some of the cooler examples include:
Motor Oil: This is an especially interesting one because more often than not it's used motor oil. The complex interaction between the hot metal and the hydrocarbon soup creates tons of interesting structures inside the surface of the steel, as well as raising the carbon content a couple bits. Depending on the oil used, it can even turn the steel a opalescent blue color! As well, because of the relatively poor heat conductivity versus that of water, the object will actually cool in a much more controlled way, which is always a good thing. Drawbacks? Hope you don't like your arm hairs, since they'll be singed if you attempt this without gloves.
Salt Water: Or more specifically, brine. The action of the sodium and chlorine on the steel produced some rather interesting surface texturing, while at the same time providing a degree of hardness hard to achieve by other methods. Of course, dunking hot metal into salty water does have some disadvantages - namely that the blade will corrode a little faster unless it's washed several times and potentially sand blasted.
Molten Salt: Seriously. Certain forged steel objects are cooled by immersing them into molten salts (often potassium chloride, though others are used too). Since steel has a melting point of a couple thousand degrees and most salts used in this process melt at around ~600, despite them both being very hot the steel will actually cool. This process is a multi-step one, with each bath both lowering the temperature and improving the wanted properties. Generally when the steel only glows a dull red it's quenched in clean water, then washed a few times with high-pressure jets to remove all excess traces of the chemicals.
Acid Quenching: Not a commonly used one due to the danger it presents (namely fumes and corrosion concerns), but some types of steel (specifically very soft ones) are quenched in acids such as concentrated nitric acid (incidentally, it has to be concentrated - dilute nitric acid will eat steel for lunch, but concentrated won't - it's called the Faraday Paradox). This process tends to strip some of the carbon content rendering the surface relatively softer, but also makes the steel highly resilient to deformation and cracking due to the gaps created - a way of thinking about it is it's like making an atomic-scale truss bridge, where the cut-out bits make the structure stronger by enforcing the proper strain distribution.
And last, but not least, my personal favorite: Wet sand quenching. This method isn't used very much any more*, but it does work - the neatest part being how little it actually affects the steel structure itself. Basically, a wooden barrel is packed with sand, then slightly dampened (not quite sand castle wet, but not bone dry) with either water or urine (the difference it makes is pretty small in this case, though urine did tend to stink more XP). Then the whole barrel is tamped down as tight as it can be, often by pounding the lid down into the sand. Then the cool part: The smith would shape the blade on the anvil (with several more awaiting his blows in the forge), then drive the cherry-hot blade into the sand with a good well-placed hammer blow, before moving onto the next blade. Once he'd made a dozen or so blades and driven them into the sand, he'd grab the first one he put in, set it on his anvil and give it a few good strikes with the broad side of his hammer to knock off the tiny beads of glass that formed, as well as any loose sand. Then a quick inspection of the now cooled blade would tell him to either throw it into a barrel of water, or re-forge it.
* The research I've found on this is a bit fuzzy - it (or a method almost exactly like it) were used for a time, but there are few surviving records of the details. So, more or less, I did take a little creative liberty with this one.
There seems to be a bit of wonkiness going on with using a Seared Duct to feed Ex Nihilo's special "Ore Dust" blocks into the High Oven. If I just throw a stack of the stuff in the Controller, it works fine. More than fine: Getting tripple ore is almost orgasmic. Next time I start a world, screw pulverizers, amirite?
Thank you for such a lovely and detailed report! Bonus points for humor, of course! I also appreciate the report being on Github as well, since I can attach the report to the fix. Such details make it very easy to pinpoint the problem, in fact, I could visualize it, and found the source of the issue almost immediately while following the code trail. So, naturally, expect a fix for this soon, among other things*.
(I assume this is the right setting, you need a bit more documentation in your book to explain the icons and all the slots, man!)
Oh, from the posts above, looks like it's a way to automatically put items into the High Oven. Alrighty. That should probably be in the book.
Agreed. I actually had something in the book for explaining the icons at one point, but I just didn't like how it turned out. Working with the books is pretty tedious, but I do plan to not only document more, but also eventually split its contents into separate books (such as a High Oven book, Deep Tank book, Materials book, etc) when there's enough content to do so.
For now, all the icons in the duct correspond to the same slots as found in the high oven controller (meaning, select an icon in the duct, and any items inserted into that duct will be routed to the given slot in the high oven), with the exception of the last one. The last one is for item output, not input. This will eventually be expanded as well - currently it's used for output of TE3 slag and a couple recipe outputs, but eventually, when this output mode is selected, another slot in the duct GUI will open up. This slot will be used to place some (mundane) casts in, such as ingot casts. From there, if at all possible, molten metals and the like will be autocasted and routed through this duct. Modern conveniences.
Basically, the duct just... doesn't work. It *seems* to work, in the sense that it wants to add blocks to my stack in the controller and remove them from the duct, but it just kinda fakes it (like a bored wife would, y'know?).
(I'm using this mod via the Agrarian Skies modpack, if you're curious - I mostly wanted a goot solution to storing the massive amounts of mob essence I'm generating at this point, as drums are kinda boring and not multiblocks.)
I need to try Agrarian Skies myself sometime. I hear such nice things about it. <3
Further research! This time into the murky and ill-understood world of... Quenching!
Your science has been observed, noted, and shall be assimilated into the Steelworks collective. Resistance is futile.
Seriously.
~~~
*There is another server-side issue I've been made aware of but haven't yet replicated myself, which involves Agrarian Skies, the High Oven GUI, invtweaks, and crashy-bits. A fix is under way, and will also be rolled into 0.0.3.2... with that said, 0.0.4 (DEV) will include Limestone, Steam Turbines (and dealloying), and a few other things. Some of which is already implemented. Those items/blocks will appear in creative mode. I would not suggest adding them into a world you want to keep, since I cannot guarantee that changes may occur between 0.0.3.2 ~ 0.0.4 to said objects won't bork a save. This is mainly in regards to the steam turbine, which currently only has one of many planned features. A bit of a preemptive warning perhaps, but some things are worth noting twice.
Awwwwwwwh, thanks. <:3c
First, Ignatius used the rock.
Then Billy asked Harry if he wanted to read his BDSM blog. Harry was so surprised that his pants flew right off. He was wearing women's underpants. The inquisitors were wearing them, too.
They realized that they were all men of the lord.
- 30 Hs
I lol'd.
<3
Strange about that 5x5x3 (or internally 3x3x1) structure. I'll poke around with it. While I haven't tested that exact configuration, I know 3x3x3 (or 1x1x1) rendered just fine. How odd.
Basically yes. I could do a quickfix for that behavior, but then there's the potential to lose fluids every time the the structure changes, which isn't very desirable if all you want to do is add a drain or expand the tank. ...Though, come to think of it, I could just disable the fluid rendering when the tank is incomplete. As it stands, if one was to replicate what Dylan did, then save and reload, the fluids would disappear since the layers would be reloaded and read from NBT.
If using Thermal Expansions liquiducts, you can blacklist water from the pipe by adding a pneumatic servo to the connected liquiduct, then place the a water bucket in one of the slots (it isn't used). That said, I do plan on coming up with *something* so that's not needed. And by something, I mean steam rises... but of course I'll need to get TSteelworks pipes going, which may be a while off yet.
First, Ignatius used the rock.
Then Billy asked Harry if he wanted to read his BDSM blog. Harry was so surprised that his pants flew right off. He was wearing women's underpants. The inquisitors were wearing them, too.
They realized that they were all men of the lord.
- 30 Hs
yeah tried that but no joy as there is always water in the oven it wont take the steam i did this already i can even change the liquid order in the oven btw
you already can do this as metals melt at different rates add a fluid duct from smeltery to deep tank always on and it sucks al metals to deep tank and use tank to do your casting. if you need an alloy just flick the switch on the duct and met what you need then cast at smeltery or re flick the lever and the alloy goes to the tank for later use
In regards to your previous rhymey-wimey-timey-limey post:
...well, I have to say, that was complex. Now that you're done, looks like I'm next.
@The de-alloying process: Hooray! Now I feel like throwing a parade! (Don't tell me that that isn't a legitimate rhyme. This is my post, my money, my time.)
What exactly is that block on top? It looks like Thermal Expansion, but I better stop
before I make assumptions, cause that takes some gumption (real word, you might've heard).
@The steam: Not to be mean,
but would it be too much of a load to add some code
to make pipes only take
steam from the top once it's risen up?
Honesty, don't get testy, I'm only posting (not boasting) for the sake of rhyming (bad timing?)
...realized that most of that was pretty much gibberish. Basically:
Yay! De-alloying!
Could you make it so you actually have to put the drain/pump/vent (if and when new gas-oriented versions of the normal Smeltery bits are added) at the top of the Oven, instead of at the base where people seem to normally put their drains, in order to extract the steam?
Once more, just to even the score:
Dat yo cat, doin' dat? Dat cat be bein' whack, he on xxxxxx fire, he never tire of doin' awesome stuff, cause he tough enough to shake with his master, stealin' the dawg's aster (note: don't add a dis, referencing Young Justice.)
I would normally have an image to post here, but I'm saving it for later.
Snazzy idea. I can dig it. On the todo list. This also coincides with another decision I've made recently: you will be able to dye liquid cement. When it hardens, the cement blocks will be the color you desire. Then, you can use a chisel to jazz it up.
That's the idea, champ-in-the-making.
No, but I have a cat who does that exact same very thing. It's adorable, and brolicious.
Is aster an antonym for disaster?
This. Also, the mod is balanced strictly against TConstruct and its logic, which explains its default liquid capacity. But note, that's default. There's a config setting for just this very gripe. As per skyboy's recommendation, if using Steelwroks alongside mods like Railcraft or in larger modpacks in general, using a value of 24 buckets per block is an optimal setting.You may disregard the warning in the config: it's been disproven. I'll update that text soon for the next release.
Also, Kimiro Dragon! \o/
Let's do lunch.
Yess'ir, ducts are placed in the High Oven structure just like drains.
There seems to be a bit of wonkiness going on with using a Seared Duct to feed Ex Nihilo's special "Ore Dust" blocks into the High Oven. If I just throw a stack of the stuff in the Controller, it works fine. More than fine: Getting tripple ore is almost orgasmic. Next time I start a world, screw pulverizers, amirite?
However, if I start with a completely empty controller (except for fuel and a 3000 degree temperature, wooh!), and I place a single Ore Dust in the Seared Duct, set the output to the "ingot" icon (I assume this is the right setting, you need a bit more documentation in your book to explain the icons and all the slots, man!) and give it redstone from a lever, it doesn't work. That is to say, the dust doesn't get deposited in the controller, even though visually it seems to disappear from the duct's interface. But if I exit the interface and go back in it, I can see the dust for a fraction of a second before it disappears again. Troubleshooting, I noticed that if I switch the icon at the bottom, then the dust (or any amount of dust I throw in that disappears initially) just... pops back into the slots, like it never left.
Things can get even wonkier though. If I already have, say, a full stack of dust in the controller getting melted, and I place some more dusts in the duct (redstone on, ingot icon), then I get the following:
BTW, using 0.0.3.1 in the Agrarian Skies mod pack/skyblock map.
Being able to store than one liquid type is definitely a good reason to use these tanks. Being able to up the liquid capacity without worrying about things breaking is also good - and I've definitely changed it to the 24 now and will be making use of the Deep Tanks. (I'm using this mod via the Agrarian Skies modpack, if you're curious - I mostly wanted a goot solution to storing the massive amounts of mob essence I'm generating at this point, as drums are kinda boring and not multiblocks.)
Now if memory serves (read: I'm to lazy to check), I've brought up the concept of quenching with regards to hardening steel as well as general forging. But did you know there's more to it than simply dunking the red-hot metal into cold water?
For starters, water is only usually used for forged objects which need no special properties, as well as cast objects. But it's become much, much more common to quench hot steel in things other than fresh water. Some of the cooler examples include:
Motor Oil: This is an especially interesting one because more often than not it's used motor oil. The complex interaction between the hot metal and the hydrocarbon soup creates tons of interesting structures inside the surface of the steel, as well as raising the carbon content a couple bits. Depending on the oil used, it can even turn the steel a opalescent blue color! As well, because of the relatively poor heat conductivity versus that of water, the object will actually cool in a much more controlled way, which is always a good thing. Drawbacks? Hope you don't like your arm hairs, since they'll be singed if you attempt this without gloves.
Salt Water: Or more specifically, brine. The action of the sodium and chlorine on the steel produced some rather interesting surface texturing, while at the same time providing a degree of hardness hard to achieve by other methods. Of course, dunking hot metal into salty water does have some disadvantages - namely that the blade will corrode a little faster unless it's washed several times and potentially sand blasted.
Molten Salt: Seriously. Certain forged steel objects are cooled by immersing them into molten salts (often potassium chloride, though others are used too). Since steel has a melting point of a couple thousand degrees and most salts used in this process melt at around ~600, despite them both being very hot the steel will actually cool. This process is a multi-step one, with each bath both lowering the temperature and improving the wanted properties. Generally when the steel only glows a dull red it's quenched in clean water, then washed a few times with high-pressure jets to remove all excess traces of the chemicals.
Acid Quenching: Not a commonly used one due to the danger it presents (namely fumes and corrosion concerns), but some types of steel (specifically very soft ones) are quenched in acids such as concentrated nitric acid (incidentally, it has to be concentrated - dilute nitric acid will eat steel for lunch, but concentrated won't - it's called the Faraday Paradox). This process tends to strip some of the carbon content rendering the surface relatively softer, but also makes the steel highly resilient to deformation and cracking due to the gaps created - a way of thinking about it is it's like making an atomic-scale truss bridge, where the cut-out bits make the structure stronger by enforcing the proper strain distribution.
And last, but not least, my personal favorite: Wet sand quenching. This method isn't used very much any more*, but it does work - the neatest part being how little it actually affects the steel structure itself. Basically, a wooden barrel is packed with sand, then slightly dampened (not quite sand castle wet, but not bone dry) with either water or urine (the difference it makes is pretty small in this case, though urine did tend to stink more XP). Then the whole barrel is tamped down as tight as it can be, often by pounding the lid down into the sand. Then the cool part: The smith would shape the blade on the anvil (with several more awaiting his blows in the forge), then drive the cherry-hot blade into the sand with a good well-placed hammer blow, before moving onto the next blade. Once he'd made a dozen or so blades and driven them into the sand, he'd grab the first one he put in, set it on his anvil and give it a few good strikes with the broad side of his hammer to knock off the tiny beads of glass that formed, as well as any loose sand. Then a quick inspection of the now cooled blade would tell him to either throw it into a barrel of water, or re-forge it.
* The research I've found on this is a bit fuzzy - it (or a method almost exactly like it) were used for a time, but there are few surviving records of the details. So, more or less, I did take a little creative liberty with this one.
Oh, from the posts above, looks like it's a way to automatically put items into the High Oven. Alrighty. That should probably be in the book.
Thank you for such a lovely and detailed report! Bonus points for humor, of course! I also appreciate the report being on Github as well, since I can attach the report to the fix. Such details make it very easy to pinpoint the problem, in fact, I could visualize it, and found the source of the issue almost immediately while following the code trail. So, naturally, expect a fix for this soon, among other things*.
Agreed. I actually had something in the book for explaining the icons at one point, but I just didn't like how it turned out. Working with the books is pretty tedious, but I do plan to not only document more, but also eventually split its contents into separate books (such as a High Oven book, Deep Tank book, Materials book, etc) when there's enough content to do so.
For now, all the icons in the duct correspond to the same slots as found in the high oven controller (meaning, select an icon in the duct, and any items inserted into that duct will be routed to the given slot in the high oven), with the exception of the last one. The last one is for item output, not input. This will eventually be expanded as well - currently it's used for output of TE3 slag and a couple recipe outputs, but eventually, when this output mode is selected, another slot in the duct GUI will open up. This slot will be used to place some (mundane) casts in, such as ingot casts. From there, if at all possible, molten metals and the like will be autocasted and routed through this duct. Modern conveniences.
*snort*
I need to try Agrarian Skies myself sometime. I hear such nice things about it. <3
Your science has been observed, noted, and shall be assimilated into the Steelworks collective. Resistance is futile.
Seriously.
~~~
*There is another server-side issue I've been made aware of but haven't yet replicated myself, which involves Agrarian Skies, the High Oven GUI, invtweaks, and crashy-bits. A fix is under way, and will also be rolled into 0.0.3.2... with that said, 0.0.4 (DEV) will include Limestone, Steam Turbines (and dealloying), and a few other things. Some of which is already implemented. Those items/blocks will appear in creative mode. I would not suggest adding them into a world you want to keep, since I cannot guarantee that changes may occur between 0.0.3.2 ~ 0.0.4 to said objects won't bork a save. This is mainly in regards to the steam turbine, which currently only has one of many planned features. A bit of a preemptive warning perhaps, but some things are worth noting twice.