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I have personally verified that this simple 4-clock is legit.

I made the NS 4-clock, the 5-Clock, and the EW false 4-clock and saw that the EW clock synchronized with the 5-clock, whereas the NS clock remained asynchronous.

I took the additional step of hooking all the clocks to a "stop" switch so that when I flipped it to "go" each of the lights I was watching all started in phase with each other.

Conclusion: DEADBEEF's simple 4-clock design is legit and works as stated. I will also be happy now that I can make synchronized double-doors.

Would somebody be able to figure out what's wrong with my parallel-in serial-out shift register? I can't seem to get it working no matter how hard I try.



Here's a rundown of what I do if I'm trying to send 10
1. Input 1: on and and input 2: off. Shift: off
2. Press clock button.
3. Input 1: off (or leave it on, it makes no difference). Shift: on
4. Press clock button.
No matter how many times I press it the output (on the right) is always on.

Please help!
Thanks

Quote from toi333 »

Quote from Hans Lemurson »

I have personally verified that this simple 4-clock is legit.

I made the NS 4-clock, the 5-Clock, and the EW false 4-clock and saw that the EW clock synchronized with the 5-clock, whereas the NS clock remained asynchronous.

I took the additional step of hooking all the clocks to a "stop" switch so that when I flipped it to "go" each of the lights I was watching all started in phase with each other.

Conclusion: DEADBEEF's simple 4-clock design is legit and works as stated. I will also be happy now that I can make synchronized double-doors.

Phenomenon and the clock design was shown 4 pages before, by VincentLaw here.

D'oh! Why would I not have expected that VincentLaw would have thought of this too? Especially given that he explicitly stated that his new flip-flop design worked the same NS and EW.

Quote from KinoftheFlames »

OR gate (smaller than OP)




sand is nothing. tnt is new torch

torches should ALWAYS be TNT.

I know there’s an effort to keep circuits in one place, but this one’s a bit big, and possibly interesting to people who aren’t interested in every possible way to build an XOR gate.

On a nearly unrelated note, don’t miss Sukasa’s Earle latch in the simulator thread.

Hi, I'm trying to design a stacked carry look ahead adder.

This is the top level of the carry look ahead unit.



It uses the expression G3+G2.P3+G1.P3.P2+G0.P3.P2.P1+C0.P3.P2.P1.P0 and I couldn't think of a way to make it simpler.

Pi = Ai XOR Bi
Gi = Ai.Bi

It is a 2-tick operation though unfortunately it is ridiculously large.

Does anyone has any tips on how to compact it?

At least in this form it is easy to figure out how to build the lower levels, by simply removing the right most sections.

Hi I was wondering what exactly is the logic in each unit cell?

So, the search is disabled aparently...

I was wondering if anyone knows if an efficient full adder has been posted in this thread?

Quote from Avus »

I was wondering if anyone knows if an efficient full adder has been posted in this thread?

The best one I know of is vandrien’s.
5×7×3. Worst-case latency 5 ticks, carry latency 2 ticks.

Quote from vandrien »

Condensed version of a full adder. Currently the size is 5x7x3 but it's a work in progress. The Cin and Cout ports are aligned for easy stacking.

.

Any feedback is appreciated.

I was playing around with this in the simulator today and managed to shrink it to 5x6x3 by rearranging the output XNOR:



Edit: Schematic

I'm not sure if it works in-game yet as I haven't had a chance to test it.

Edit: Tested and working! (output appears inverted because of the torches, but the lines themselves are what matter)



I'm really curious to see if this can go any smaller.

Seems like the only place to put this. I Made a 4 bit to 7 Segment Decoder. Now I'm trying to tie it to a simple counter but I cant get the counter to work properly

Decoder


This is the Counter I was trying to use

congrats on 100k thread views!

Never Mind my Post I got it working!.

Next project is fixing the Display to show the 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 that my counter goes to now

I am reading this thread and the minecraftwiki about circuits, but I am getting confused:

Which kind of gate should I use if I want a switch placed far away (requiring wiring) to determine if a pressureplate that powers a door receives any power at all, rather than constantly making the pressure plate act pressed?

Basically I am trying to find a way to make my secret passage less discoverable.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Quote from rolfdavid »

I'm not sure I fully understand what you are after here.... if you would like to know if the preassureplate is "active" you could just draw a redstone wire from the plate to a place of your choice and place a restone torch there to indicate if it's activated or not.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33/trumpet_nerd/redstonequestion.jpg
Orange: approx. where an extra lever is
Purple: where my "bridge"/secret door is
Yellow: I have two pressureplates here, one on each side of the secret door. They are already wired in and work just fine

What I am trying to do is use the lever to decide if the pressure plates (at least just the one visible here) will have power to them, to make the secret room a bit less accessible.

An AND gate? I wouldn't understand how to wire it I don't think. And if pressure plates aren't affected by redstone, what is a good alternative?

My observations thus far

when circuit has no power but torch does:
bridge open when plate up
bridge open when plate down

when circuit has power but torch does not:
bridge closed when plate up
bridge open when plate down

when circuit has power with redstone at end, 
bridge always down

when circuit does not have power with redstone at end,
bridge functions normally

Here's a 5x18x8 ALU design I've been working on for a few days. I didn't want to dump a long explanation into this thread, but here's what it looks like: