I tried making the door version and it works! I feel like some kind of superman now ^^ A quick question tough, it only works with levers. If I try putting in two buttons instead, the doors stay open and close for about 3 seconds when I push the button. Kinda wierd. Does not matter though since it works with levers ^^
The buttons do this because that is what they are designed to do. It adds a bit of security knowing you can click the button and walk though the door without having to close it again.
What he is saying is that they close for a second and reopen afterward. And he's right. The reason is that the circuit is designed so that powered means closed instead of open. The easiest way to make a button work is to attach a torch to the block and have that feed into the wire below instead of connecting directly to it. Doing that to the current design would mean baring circuitry, though.
Quote from Nebuchadnezzar »
Only now it does not work anymore. Pushing the master switch opens and closes the door.
If the master switch is open, the door is closed, the inside plate does not work, but the outside plate does.
If the master switch is closed, the door is open, the inside plate does work but it closes the door for 3 seconds. and the outside plate does not work. I thought that the preassure plates were built the same way levers were. That is why i thought i needed this complicated ( in my eyes build ) Now i see I only need four pressure plates, and a master switch that makes the outside preassure plates stop working.
"will try hard to make this work"
There is no timing in this circuit, so unless you replaced something with a button, everything should stay the way it is after a change (the door should not reopen). With the current circuit, you cannot use buttons. You need an AND gate for that (i.e. more torches). And pressure plates do behave just like switches, except they are on the floor. I'm not sure what you mean by open and closed master switch. When the master is ON (pointing down), the doors should be closed, unless the inside plates are activated (the outside controls will be useless). When the master is OFF (pointing up), the lever outside will open and close the door, as well as the outside pressure plate.
EDIT: Here's a version which uses a button. It's exactly the same, except for the circuitry just underneath the button.
Has the timing changed? The edge-triggered D flip-flop design on the wiki doesn't work for me. The level-triggered design works fine, and I can see that wire go dark for a second when the clock is toggled, but apparently not long
enough to latch the new state.
Never mind, I haven't been able to reproduce problems with one flip flop, maybe it was just the second when I was working out how to build a shift register. One repeater on the clock from the downstream to upstream latch is just the right timing for a shift register.
Those are definitely sub-optimal, though. To take an example, d can be done in two ticks, but yours:
takes 4 ticks. Remember that while the rest of the world optimizes for fewer gates, we optimize for fewer NORs, and XOR is a costly operation, especially if you use the 3-tick XOR (which I know is in your 7-segs).
Those are definitely sub-optimal, though. To take an example, d can be done in two ticks, but yours:
*image*
takes 4 ticks. Remember that while the rest of the world optimizes for fewer gates, we optimize for fewer NORs, and XOR is a costly operation, especially if you use the 3-tick XOR (which I know is in your 7-segs).
Ah, ok. I see what you mean. My equations looked prettier but were slower. How about this for d?
I'm pretty sure this is correct. Double-checked it and everything.
EDIT: btw, I kinda reversed the letters on this design. 8421 = DCBA whereas in the earlier picture 8421 = ABCD. Working off two different websites who expressed it differently.
EDIT2: Super bored. Did the rest.
I colored in similar sections of the different segments. Also, assuming I did this correctly, does this mean they can ALL be done in 2 ticks?
Baezon, I feel embarrassed to say so, but after trying to build three of the structures you proposed I still can not make it work :/
When the master-switch is on everything works like a charm. The doors stay closed, inside plates work outside plates do not. But turning it off causes heaps of problems. For once the doors open, using the inside plates does not work, and the outside plates closes the doors instead of opening them.
I surely hope I did not forget anything while building, I did it exactly like you awesome drawnings ^^
Ideally would be the situation bellow
1 Master switch inside. This does not affect the doors at all. Only makes the outside plates stop working.
2 Inside plates, always working.
3 Outside plates, only works when the master switch is off
4 A lever to open the doors, this would keep the doors open no matter what.
I do have enough space to wire this beneath the ground. But building something like this seems like it could only be done by a redstone/minecraft expert.
Thanks a bunch for trying to help me, I really appreciate it ^^
@nekizalb: There's one thing you forgot to account for: saying "... + D" means you are using the 0-tick OR (a wire) to connect D to the rest. This is bad, as you will then not be able to re-use D for the other segments. The way I have implemented this constraint is to say that all OR arguments must have at least one bar over them. (This does not apply to NORs, since those can be isolated, so only plus signs not under a bar are affected. (And larger NORs, if you find 3 or 4 input NORs to be inconvenient.) However, this won't increase the number of ticks for the whole formula, so you may be right about all of them needing only 2 ticks! (Keep in mind, though, that the expression I am looking for also does A-F in the 7seg, since I figured I may as well go all the way with this.)
Quote from Nebuchadnezzar »
Baezon, I feel embarrassed to say so, but after trying to build three of the structures you proposed I still can not make it work :/
When the master-switch is on everything works like a charm. The doors stay closed, inside plates work outside plates do not. But turning it off causes heaps of problems. For once the doors open, using the inside plates does not work, and the outside plates closes the doors instead of opening them.
I surely hope I did not forget anything while building, I did it exactly like you awesome drawnings ^^
Ideally would be the situation bellow
1 Master switch inside. This does not affect the doors at all. Only makes the outside plates stop working.
2 Inside plates, always working.
3 Outside plates, only works when the master switch is off
4 A lever to open the doors, this would keep the doors open no matter what.
I do have enough space to wire this beneath the ground. But building something like this seems like it could only be done by a redstone/minecraft expert.
Thanks a bunch for trying to help me, I really appreciate it ^^
Your circuit sounds like it is working the way I intended, and I misunderstood your idea as to how the controls affect the state of the door. Here's a table which shows the state of the door considering all inputs (C=Closed, O=Open):
As you can see, the inside plate always opens the door. If the door is already open (lever off, outside plate off, master off), it won't do anything because it can't open an already open door. If the master is on, no outside controls can open the door. The outside plate will close the door if the master and inside plate are off. This is what I read by a plate "that could only close the doors". Try amending this table to show what you want the controls to do, and then I might be able to know what circuit you need.
You are the coolest and nicest person on earth. Awesome! It works, took em some tries, but it works!
Only problem now is that when the outside plates do not work, one of the doors twitches. I cant get inside, but I find it wierd. Again thanks, this is just what I was looking for! I managed to understand how the first one worked, guess I have to spend some time understanding this one aswell.
Why make a simple doorsystem, when you can have something as awesome as this? ^^
I am quite a noob at this (obviously) but could you tell exactly what does not work, and perhaps telling which wires that differ in color from Baezons image? I guess the twitching of one of the doors is notches fault, this system works flawlessly ^^
Well, when looking from the inside, neither of the switches in front of the door work, and the switch on the left wall does nothing. also, neither of the outside switches work.
Alright, I tried it again and now there's only one problem, the left door won't work ... I don't know what to do now.
The left-most door in my picture has a torch directly under it. Make sure it is there and has a wire running into it. Also make sure that it is oriented the right way. When powered, it should close, and when unpowered, it should be against the wall. If it is not like this, try placing the door while standing in a different direction (carve out the wall on the left and place the door while standing there, then put the wall back).
Im more than sure than somewhere out there somebody has figured out to do something like flip a lever and a group of lights turn on and off. I very much want a picture or two from ingame to figure this out, looking at the wiki or other things here that just look like lines and random dots, cant quite figure it out.
Much thanks for the help crazy circuit people, all I;ve done is made a verrry simple lock that I saw how to do on youtube xD. Im not very good yet.
Flashing lights would be ****king sick though....so please helllllp
Those are definitely sub-optimal, though. To take an example, d can be done in two ticks, but yours:
*image*
takes 4 ticks. Remember that while the rest of the world optimizes for fewer gates, we optimize for fewer NORs, and XOR is a costly operation, especially if you use the 3-tick XOR (which I know is in your 7-segs).
Ah, ok. I see what you mean. My equations looked prettier but were slower. How about this for d?
I'm pretty sure this is correct. Double-checked it and everything.
EDIT: btw, I kinda reversed the letters on this design. 8421 = DCBA whereas in the earlier picture 8421 = ABCD. Working off two different websites who expressed it differently.
EDIT2: Super bored. Did the rest.
I colored in similar sections of the different segments. Also, assuming I did this correctly, does this mean they can ALL be done in 2 ticks?
I've finally done it! I managed to make the equations for the 7-seg! Two important differences from the set you posted above is that 1) they also cover A-F, and 2) they use near-minimal number of torches. To expound on this second one a bit, allow me to compare two formulae for XOR: 1. !(a + !:cool.gif: + !(b + !a), 2. !(a +!(a + :cool.gif:) + !(b + !(a + :cool.gif:). Although the first equation appears to be smaller, the second one is the basis for most of our designs because !(a + :cool.gif: can be re-used, thereby decreasing the number of torches necessary (and the amount of wiring). So without further ado, behold!
Although it appears gargantuan to the untrained eye, if you look closely, you'll notice repeated elements at every level, too many to highlight. It averages 5 torches per segment, which is pretty good, considering how much logic has to be done on 4 variables.
Quote from N3rV_Green »
Im more than sure than somewhere out there somebody has figured out to do something like flip a lever and a group of lights turn on and off. I very much want a picture or two from ingame to figure this out, looking at the wiki or other things here that just look like lines and random dots, cant quite figure it out.
Much thanks for the help crazy circuit people, all I;ve done is made a verrry simple lock that I saw how to do on youtube xD. Im not very good yet.
Flashing lights would be ****king sick though....so please helllllp
Start with a 5-clock. You can find a diagram for how to build one here (under "5-clock") or here (under "B" or "C"). Then, place a wire next to a block which has a torch attached to it on any of those designs, and a switch next to the wire. When you turn the switch on, the lights stop flashing. if you turn it off again, the lights start up again.
I've finally done it! I managed to make the equations for the 7-seg! Two important differences from the set you posted above is that 1) they also cover A-F, and 2) they use near-minimal number of torches. To expound on this second one a bit, allow me to compare two formulae for XOR: 1. !(a + !:cool.gif: + !(b + !a), 2. !(a +!(a + :cool.gif:) + !(b + !(a + :cool.gif:). Although the first equation appears to be smaller, the second one is the basis for most of our designs because !(a + :cool.gif: can be re-used, thereby decreasing the number of torches necessary (and the amount of wiring). So without further ado, behold!
Although it appears gargantuan to the untrained eye, if you look closely, you'll notice repeated elements at every level, too many to highlight. It averages 5 torches per segment, which is pretty good, considering how much logic has to be done on 4 variables.
What do you mean by 'they also cover A-F'? I posted equations for all 7 segments... just confused what you mean.
What he is saying is that they close for a second and reopen afterward. And he's right. The reason is that the circuit is designed so that powered means closed instead of open. The easiest way to make a button work is to attach a torch to the block and have that feed into the wire below instead of connecting directly to it. Doing that to the current design would mean baring circuitry, though.
There is no timing in this circuit, so unless you replaced something with a button, everything should stay the way it is after a change (the door should not reopen). With the current circuit, you cannot use buttons. You need an AND gate for that (i.e. more torches). And pressure plates do behave just like switches, except they are on the floor. I'm not sure what you mean by open and closed master switch. When the master is ON (pointing down), the doors should be closed, unless the inside plates are activated (the outside controls will be useless). When the master is OFF (pointing up), the lever outside will open and close the door, as well as the outside pressure plate.
EDIT: Here's a version which uses a button. It's exactly the same, except for the circuitry just underneath the button.
enough to latch the new state.
Never mind, I haven't been able to reproduce problems with one flip flop, maybe it was just the second when I was working out how to build a shift register. One repeater on the clock from the downstream to upstream latch is just the right timing for a shift register.
Full Article
Those are definitely sub-optimal, though. To take an example, d can be done in two ticks, but yours:
takes 4 ticks. Remember that while the rest of the world optimizes for fewer gates, we optimize for fewer NORs, and XOR is a costly operation, especially if you use the 3-tick XOR (which I know is in your 7-segs).
Ah, ok. I see what you mean. My equations looked prettier but were slower. How about this for d?
I'm pretty sure this is correct. Double-checked it and everything.
EDIT: btw, I kinda reversed the letters on this design. 8421 = DCBA whereas in the earlier picture 8421 = ABCD. Working off two different websites who expressed it differently.
EDIT2: Super bored. Did the rest.
I colored in similar sections of the different segments. Also, assuming I did this correctly, does this mean they can ALL be done in 2 ticks?
Sources used.
http://www.physics.udel.edu/~watson/phys345/class/17-decoder-full.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NOR_logic
When the master-switch is on everything works like a charm. The doors stay closed, inside plates work outside plates do not. But turning it off causes heaps of problems. For once the doors open, using the inside plates does not work, and the outside plates closes the doors instead of opening them.
I surely hope I did not forget anything while building, I did it exactly like you awesome drawnings ^^
Ideally would be the situation bellow
1 Master switch inside. This does not affect the doors at all. Only makes the outside plates stop working.
2 Inside plates, always working.
3 Outside plates, only works when the master switch is off
4 A lever to open the doors, this would keep the doors open no matter what.
I do have enough space to wire this beneath the ground. But building something like this seems like it could only be done by a redstone/minecraft expert.
Thanks a bunch for trying to help me, I really appreciate it ^^
Your circuit sounds like it is working the way I intended, and I misunderstood your idea as to how the controls affect the state of the door. Here's a table which shows the state of the door considering all inputs (C=Closed, O=Open):
As you can see, the inside plate always opens the door. If the door is already open (lever off, outside plate off, master off), it won't do anything because it can't open an already open door. If the master is on, no outside controls can open the door. The outside plate will close the door if the master and inside plate are off. This is what I read by a plate "that could only close the doors". Try amending this table to show what you want the controls to do, and then I might be able to know what circuit you need.
Only change is that both levers should be placed inside, other than that it is not as important where ^^
Thanks again for helping someone as stupid as me.
...but not too complicated for me! Unfortunately, that one needs 4 torches, and is slightly larger and deeper, but still gets the job done.
Only problem now is that when the outside plates do not work, one of the doors twitches. I cant get inside, but I find it wierd. Again thanks, this is just what I was looking for! I managed to understand how the first one worked, guess I have to spend some time understanding this one aswell.
Why make a simple doorsystem, when you can have something as awesome as this? ^^
Layer 4
Layer 3
Sorry for not making the other layers ^^
The left-most door in my picture has a torch directly under it. Make sure it is there and has a wire running into it. Also make sure that it is oriented the right way. When powered, it should close, and when unpowered, it should be against the wall. If it is not like this, try placing the door while standing in a different direction (carve out the wall on the left and place the door while standing there, then put the wall back).
Much thanks for the help crazy circuit people, all I;ve done is made a verrry simple lock that I saw how to do on youtube xD. Im not very good yet.
Flashing lights would be ****king sick though....so please helllllp
I've finally done it! I managed to make the equations for the 7-seg! Two important differences from the set you posted above is that 1) they also cover A-F, and 2) they use near-minimal number of torches. To expound on this second one a bit, allow me to compare two formulae for XOR: 1. !(a + !:cool.gif: + !(b + !a), 2. !(a +!(a + :cool.gif:) + !(b + !(a + :cool.gif:). Although the first equation appears to be smaller, the second one is the basis for most of our designs because !(a + :cool.gif: can be re-used, thereby decreasing the number of torches necessary (and the amount of wiring). So without further ado, behold!
Although it appears gargantuan to the untrained eye, if you look closely, you'll notice repeated elements at every level, too many to highlight. It averages 5 torches per segment, which is pretty good, considering how much logic has to be done on 4 variables.
Start with a 5-clock. You can find a diagram for how to build one here (under "5-clock") or here (under "B" or "C"). Then, place a wire next to a block which has a torch attached to it on any of those designs, and a switch next to the wire. When you turn the switch on, the lights stop flashing. if you turn it off again, the lights start up again.
EDIT: MC pic.
What do you mean by 'they also cover A-F'? I posted equations for all 7 segments... just confused what you mean.