Okay! So the update came today which included a Redstone Diode/Repeater/Delayer! This being the Redstone logic thread, I thought this would be the perfect place to ask... I want to know how to work the dang thing! I've hooked it up in a number of ways in order to attempt to get it to work as a repeater, but the only thing I've gotten it to do is delay my circuitry flow.
My goal is to develop a way to use the Repeater function as a way to create looping Note Blocks.
If any of you guys can help me out, I'd love you forever!
Something I just came up with that I thought would be useful for compressing circuits:
The limited accessibility of the redstone repeater enables it to be used to isolate compact circuits. I have here a pair or wires that need to be isolated along a given path. The repeaters only accept input and pass output along the one direction thereby isolating it from the nearby wiring.
The following shows a similar concept only with a corner in the closer wire. This is done such that the close path can turn the corner while remaining isolated from the far path.
lol finally signed up to these forums. The new diode is amazing, and i've used it in my order-sensitive-button-controlled-coded-door-lock-circuit-thingy and its cut the total size down by about 1/5th, which makes up for alot of building materials saved. Unlike redstone wire, it can't take power from below, which means you can cram them into circuits without worrying about getting accidental power gain. My circuit was having alot of issues with the button staying on for X tics(which i think is about 10 tics) and for each extra digit in the lock code, had to have enough NOT gates to make a 10 tic delay before the next digit entered could be analysed properly, which took up about 3x2x12 space, these diode's have eliminated that space entirely as i can redirect the delay channel over my RS-NOR latch's. Hooray for Jeb IMO.
MONOSTABLE CIRCUIT Kiss the old burnout method goodbye!
Very simple, thanks to the new diode, and can be made for a very long delay! The output of each diode simply connects back around to the input. For every 8 diodes you'll need an extra diode on the output return path. This circuit is very flexible and can be turned in corners, i'm experimenting with a vertical design, but the horiztonal design is so far the most efficient.
:edit: I should explain to the less redstone inclined peoples that the diode powers the block it outputs into, and any redstone wire on top or the sides of said block will receive power, regardless of whether the wire looks like its 'connected' to the block or not. A diode will also receive power from this 'powered block' as long as the diode's arrow is facing directly away from the block
Legend:
Input(any Power source)
Block of your choice
Repeater facing to the right
Repeater facing towards the output(This diode isolates the input to prevent infinite power loops)
Redstone wire.
Output redstone wire.(This can be moved along the return path.)
+ + --->
[] + :Lava:+ --->
[]
[]
Here is an example screenshot:
Hope this makes sense and was educational! :smile.gif:
I'm new to circuits but redstone has me very interested in them too. I think you have an error in your circuit. Shouldn't there be an inverter in there? In the circuit below, on an negative edge the output drops low and after a delay returns to high, which is how I understand a monostable circuit to work.
A device that turns itself off a short time after it has been activated.
This is probably not a true real life monostable circuit, but for many people in minecraft this is just an easier way to add extra tic's to door buttons, and it performs exactly the same way as having an RS-NOR with a burnout torch wired into the reset.
The burnout torch method may be more suited for different space requirements. Experiment :smile.gif:
Another example would be all my mine cart launch buttons need monostable circuits to keep the track open long enough for the boosted booster minecart to leave its stable, and then the circuit turns off and closes the track again so the boosted booster cart go's back into its stable for later launching.
The double door circuits all need updating now, we don't need to rely on north-south quirk anymore for synchronising.
Simply apply power to the blocks. The in layer 2 can be redstone wire instead with a button block on top.
Place the double doors on top of the blocks. Face the iron blocks with the repeater to your left when placing the doors, or the doors will be open by default.
:edit: Make sure the diode is pointing at the door of course.
A device that turns itself off a short time after it has been activated.
I was studying your device, and it does not turn itself off automatically. It simply creates a delay for a high-to-low input, and a 1-tick delay for low-to-high. I also noticed that it's behavior is not immediately obvious, but it can be reorganized. The two circuits below are identical:
When connected to the same input, the outputs (green dot) are always in sync. The two numbers are the delays on those two repeaters. The rest are set to 4.
If you pulse the circuit it will stay on until the repeaters have all reset. So it really is 'A device that turns itself off a short time after it has been activated.' If you are pulsing the circuit with a 1-3 tic pulse width you will have to adjust the low-high delay to (4-pulsewidth).
When connected to the same input, the outputs (green dot) are always in sync. The two numbers are the delays on those two repeaters. The rest are set to 4.
Ur circuit up the top is better aesthetically, and i can amend it to look that way. I had the repeater facing downwards just so people could see that it was the initial low-high diode and therefore easier to adjust its delay, but it doesn't matter, people are smrt! I'll correct it when i can.
Do you guys have any insight on creating a compact 2-to-1 multiplexer? For those not familiar with terminology, this is a component which takes 2 inputs and selects between them with a selector input. The output is the input selected by the selector. From wikipedia:
Rollback Post to RevisionRollBack
If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe.
--Carl Sagan
I am Scjoiner on YouTube. Check out my insane redstone stuff. Scjoiner's Channel
For simple circuits where extra tics aren't an issue, but you wan't to make it as small as possible, RS-NOR's can be made into an almost 2x3 setup using diodes.
[]
[] []
[]
The diodes just have to point towards the adjacent block. It add's 2 extra tic's for Set and Reset.
Do you guys have any insight on creating a compact 2-to-1 multiplexer?
Being able to compact circuits depends a lot on the exact specification for placement of inputs/outputs. I'm pretty sure it can be built smaller, maybe with the repeater to isolate the selector input..
Multiplexer (3x4x3) by Banjobeni
Use the middle input to switch the output between the state of the left/right input.
My goal is to develop a way to use the Repeater function as a way to create looping Note Blocks.
If any of you guys can help me out, I'd love you forever!
I really like the compact not a lot.
The limited accessibility of the redstone repeater enables it to be used to isolate compact circuits. I have here a pair or wires that need to be isolated along a given path. The repeaters only accept input and pass output along the one direction thereby isolating it from the nearby wiring.
The following shows a similar concept only with a corner in the closer wire. This is done such that the close path can turn the corner while remaining isolated from the far path.
Hope this is helpful!
--Carl Sagan
I am Scjoiner on YouTube. Check out my insane redstone stuff. Scjoiner's Channel
Kiss the old burnout method goodbye!
Very simple, thanks to the new diode, and can be made for a very long delay! The output of each diode simply connects back around to the input. For every 8 diodes you'll need an extra diode on the output return path. This circuit is very flexible and can be turned in corners, i'm experimenting with a vertical design, but the horiztonal design is so far the most efficient.
:edit: I should explain to the less redstone inclined peoples that the diode powers the block it outputs into, and any redstone wire on top or the sides of said block will receive power, regardless of whether the wire looks like its 'connected' to the block or not. A diode will also receive power from this 'powered block' as long as the diode's arrow is facing directly away from the block
Legend:
Input(any Power source)
Block of your choice
Repeater facing to the right
Repeater facing towards the output(This diode isolates the input to prevent infinite power loops)
Redstone wire.
Output redstone wire.(This can be moved along the return path.)
+ + --->
[] + :Lava:+ --->
[]
[]
Here is an example screenshot:
Hope this makes sense and was educational! :smile.gif:
I'm new to circuits but redstone has me very interested in them too. I think you have an error in your circuit. Shouldn't there be an inverter in there? In the circuit below, on an negative edge the output drops low and after a delay returns to high, which is how I understand a monostable circuit to work.
This is probably not a true real life monostable circuit, but for many people in minecraft this is just an easier way to add extra tic's to door buttons, and it performs exactly the same way as having an RS-NOR with a burnout torch wired into the reset.
The burnout torch method may be more suited for different space requirements. Experiment :smile.gif:
Another example would be all my mine cart launch buttons need monostable circuits to keep the track open long enough for the boosted booster minecart to leave its stable, and then the circuit turns off and closes the track again so the boosted booster cart go's back into its stable for later launching.
Simply apply power to the blocks. The in layer 2 can be redstone wire instead with a button block on top.
Place the double doors on top of the blocks. Face the iron blocks with the repeater to your left when placing the doors, or the doors will be open by default.
:edit: Make sure the diode is pointing at the door of course.
Layer 1
Layer 2
[]
I was studying your device, and it does not turn itself off automatically. It simply creates a delay for a high-to-low input, and a 1-tick delay for low-to-high. I also noticed that it's behavior is not immediately obvious, but it can be reorganized. The two circuits below are identical:
When connected to the same input, the outputs (green dot) are always in sync. The two numbers are the delays on those two repeaters. The rest are set to 4.
Ur circuit up the top is better aesthetically, and i can amend it to look that way. I had the repeater facing downwards just so people could see that it was the initial low-high diode and therefore easier to adjust its delay, but it doesn't matter, people are smrt! I'll correct it when i can.
--Carl Sagan
I am Scjoiner on YouTube. Check out my insane redstone stuff. Scjoiner's Channel
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[] []
[]
The diodes just have to point towards the adjacent block. It add's 2 extra tic's for Set and Reset.
Being able to compact circuits depends a lot on the exact specification for placement of inputs/outputs. I'm pretty sure it can be built smaller, maybe with the repeater to isolate the selector input..
Multiplexer (3x4x3) by Banjobeni
Use the middle input to switch the output between the state of the left/right input.
Requires: 6 torches, 5 redstone
Delay: 3 ticks
--Carl Sagan
I am Scjoiner on YouTube. Check out my insane redstone stuff. Scjoiner's Channel